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【伝・元軍兵士の「鎧兜」姿 元寇史料館にて-2】



 さて「元寇史料館」探訪記に復帰です。
 この稀有な「戦争史料館」という珍しい存在で、もっとも目を懲らされたのは、上の写真の元軍兵士の鎧兜。但し書きとして「伝」と付けられているのは、実物として当時から保存され続けてきたものだろうけれど、その事実を証明できる周辺的な解明が出来ずに、その後、元という国家そのものが滅亡してしまったことに起因するだろうと思われた。現代ではそうした解明も可能だろうけれど機微な外交関係下では、そうした軍事にも通じる情報探索は難しいことは容易に想像できる。
 2枚目の写真の通り、168cmの長さ・12.5kgの重量。鎧〜よろい〜の表面は布製で今に至っても色鮮やかな龍や唐草の刺繍デザインが施されている。裏面全体に7cm四方の鉄板が隙間なく装備され、鎧としての優れた機能性をうかがわせる。〜という解説。
 他方日本兵の方は、この時期のものではなく江戸期の日本の武士の装備写真が参考に展示されていた。

 この鎧兜について、展示に付けられた説明文の該当部分を以下に引用する。
 〜「漢」代の中国はたいへん経済的・文化的に充実した国力を誇っていたが、一方で絶えず北方民族などからの征服脅威にさらされていた。そのため匈奴と呼ばれた勢力に対してはもっぱら物品贈与の外交を持って懐柔手段に当たっていた。そういう物品の中に「真綿」が存在した。北方民族の匈奴にしてみると真綿はほかの豪華な「錦」などの製品よりもその「防寒性」から必需品であったという。さらに真綿は「軽くてあたたかく」しかも矢弾を防ぎ身を守る効果のあることに気づき、やがて「戦闘衣」として用いるようになったのである。このことはヨーロッパのローマ帝国でも知られて中国製のこうした戦闘衣を着て戦わせたところ、敵矢をよく防いだと言われている。┈┈濡れると真綿のその性能はさらに強化された。真綿は最強の「防弾チョッキ」だった。〜
 一方日本における真綿の生産歴史は検索では以下の通り。
 〜真綿の生産史の概要: 古代:弥生時代後半頃に真綿が日本に伝来し、神話にも養蚕に関する記述があります。 古代から中世:真綿は交易品や衣服、また寝具としても使われました。特に中世には生糸技術が失われたため、養蚕は真綿生産に専念しました。 江戸時代:木綿の栽培が普及し、生糸技術が復活したため、真綿の生産は衰退し始めましたが、近江地方では真綿の生産が盛んに行われていました。〜
 こうした歴史を通じた戦争と戦闘衣の進化過程の彼我の相違が、大きく影響した側面があった。元寇についての教科書の図でも、元軍兵士の戦闘衣にはやや奇異を感じたけれど、大きな「性能差」を生み出していたことが理解できた次第。<以下、明日以降につづく>

English version⬇

Biographies of Yuan soldiers in “armour” at the Yuan Enemy Museum – 2]
Various continental states have fought each other since the beginning of history. As a result of this history, there has been a rational development in terms of military equipment. Historical clarification from physical evidence. …

 Now back to the exploration of the ‘Genko Historical Museum’.
 The most eye-catching thing in this rare ‘war archive’ is the armour helmet of a Yuan soldier in the photo above. The reason why it is labelled as a “legend” is probably due to the fact that it has been preserved as an actual item since that time, but the nation of Yuan itself was destroyed afterwards without any peripheral clarification that could prove the fact. Such clarification may be possible in modern times, but it is easy to imagine that under sensitive diplomatic relations, it would be difficult to search for information that could be used for military purposes.
 As shown in the second photo, it is 168 cm long and weighs 12/5 kg. The surface of the armour – yoroi – is made of cloth and is still decorated with colourful dragon and arabesque embroidery designs to this day. The entire reverse side is equipped with a 7 cm square iron plate with no gaps, suggesting the armour’s superior functionality. 〜Commentary.
 The following is a quote from the relevant part of the description of this armour attached to the exhibition.
 〜During the Han dynasty, China was a powerful and economically and culturally rich country, but at the same time it was constantly threatened by conquests from northern tribes. For this reason, the Xiongnu were exclusively treated with the diplomacy of gifts of goods as a means of nostalgia. Among these goods was cotton. For the northern Xiongnu, cotton was more essential than other luxurious products such as brocade because of its ‘cold-proofing’ properties. They also realised that cotton was “light and warm” and also effective in protecting them from arrows and bullets, and eventually began to use it as “fighting clothes”. This was also known in the Roman Empire in Europe, and it is said that when the Romans made their warriors wear such garments made in China, they were able to defend themselves against enemy arrows. When wet, the performance of cotton was further enhanced. Cotton was the strongest “bulletproof vest”. ~
Meanwhile, the history of cotton production in Japan is as follows in the search.
 〜˜ Overview of the history of cotton production: Ancient times: cotton was introduced to Japan around the late Yayoi period, and there are also descriptions of sericulture in mythology. Ancient times to the Middle Ages: Cotton was used for trading goods, clothing and bedding. Especially in the Middle Ages, sericulturalists concentrated on cotton production due to the loss of raw silk technology. Edo period: Cotton production began to decline as cotton cultivation became widespread and raw silk technology was restored, but cotton production continued to flourish in the Omi region. ~
These differences between him and herself in the evolutionary process of warfare and combat clothing throughout history were a major aspect of the impact of the war. In the textbook’s illustration of the Genko, I felt that the battle dress of the Yuan soldiers was a little strange, but I could understand that it created a big “performance difference”. <Continued from tomorrow.

【母の命日供養で兄姉たちに正式新刊案内】



 さて昨日は身内の兄弟が集まっての「母の命日」の法事供養。もう39年前のことなのですが、肉親のことはどんなに時間が経っても、いわばルーツのことなので、集まれることは喜ばしい。
 ちょうどわたしの書いた電子書籍「作家と住空間」発刊からはじめての家族の集まりなので、あらためてその話題が。その一節で書いた部分についていつも来ていただいているお坊さんも交えて懇談。事前に郵送していた兄姉たちはありがたいことに本文の局所部分について、お坊さんに紹介するとして話題として振ってくれていました。
 書いた人間からするとその詳細部分について「よく読解してくれている」ことがまっすぐに伝わってきて非常にうれしい。住所が正確でなかったので未送付になっていた兄2人にも無事にプリントアウトした「電子書籍」本を手渡すことが出来ました。
 出版関係人であったわたしからすると、いまは紙の書籍の長期的低落傾向が顕著であり、今後の「単行本」出版は電子形態一択、という常識理解だった。しかしそう考える自分の認識は、兄姉たち、あるいはわたしの同期たちにすら、まだまだムリっぽいこともよく理解できてきました。
 こういう状況は出版関係人には非常に困難な局面だと言うことも身を以て知らされる。・・・
 ということですが、電子書籍「作家と住空間」中の自分自身の体験に触れたソウルフルなシーンについて、いわば専門領域人であるお坊さんとの会話は、非常に面白かった(笑)。具体的にはわたし自身の手術体験とそのとき現実感強く浮かんでいた母のイメージについての告白。
 言ってみれば彼岸への旅路の最終局面がだんだんと近づいてきて、そこにリアリティを徐々に感じつつあると言うことなのですが、しかしこうした領域も量子科学的には、だんだんとニアヒアな領域になってきているのが科学の最前線の現実でもある。人類知の進化が、ついにここまで科学的解明に近づいていることの証であるのかも知れません。
 ちょうど今、元寇史料館での掘り起こしを体験したばかりで、あの時代に元寇を予言したとされた日蓮の事跡、その当時の社会の中での位置、宗教と時代との具体的な関わりを見ていますが、そういうこととも相通じている部分なのかも知れません。

English version⬇

[Formal new book information for my brothers and sisters at my mother’s death anniversary memorial service]
Conversation about the quantum scientific experience part of my book after 39 years of my mother’s death anniversary memorial service. As a writer, I am very happy that such depths are being talked about. …

 Well, yesterday, my immediate siblings gathered for a “mother’s death anniversary” Buddhist memorial service. It was 39 years ago, but no matter how much time has passed, it is always a joy to get together with my immediate family, because it is about our roots, so to speak.
 It is just the first family gathering since the publication of my e-book ‘Writers and Living Space’, so again the topic is about that. We had a discussion about the part I wrote about in the passage with a monk who always comes to our meetings. Thankfully, the brothers and sisters who had mailed the book to the monks in advance were able to talk about the topical part of the text as an introduction to the monks.
 From the point of view of the writer, I was very happy to know straight away that they had “read and understood” the details of the text very well. I was also able to hand over the print-out of the “e-book” to my two brothers, who had not yet received it because their addresses were not correct.
 As a former publisher, it was my common sense that the long-term decline of paper books was now so pronounced that the electronic format would be the only way to publish “single books” in the future. However, I have come to understand that my perception of this is still not good enough for my brothers and sisters, or even my peers.
 I am also learning that this is a very difficult situation for people in publishing. …
But it was very interesting to have a conversation with a monk, a specialist in the field, so to speak, about the soulful scenes in the e-book “Writers and Living Space” that touched on my own experiences (laughs). Specifically, I confessed about my own surgical experience and the image of my mother that was floating in my mind with a strong sense of reality at the time.
 In other words, the final stage of my journey to the other shore is gradually approaching, and I am gradually feeling a sense of reality there, but the reality at the forefront of science is that these areas are also gradually becoming near-hierarchical in quantum scientific terms. It may be a proof that the evolution of human knowledge has finally come this close to scientific clarification.
 I have just experienced the excavation of the Genko Historical Museum, where I am looking at the traces of Nichiren, who was said to have predicted the Genko invasion in that era, his position in the society of that time, and the concrete relationship between religion and the era, which may be a part of the same thing.

 
 

【侵略を経験し歴史的に外圧を体感する〜北部九州】



 上の写真は昨日も紹介した博多と博多湾を一望できる上空写真と、今回はじめて参観できた「元寇史料館」で確認できた元軍船舶の「侵略」状況ジオラマ。この状況は元寇の1回目、1274年の「文永の役」のときのものです。13世紀において日本社会はこういう惨禍を実体験した。
 わたしたち北海道もその開拓殖民に当たっては、「北門の鎖鑰〜さやく」(鎖鑰というのは「戸締まり・用心」のような意味)という国家意志・目的が大きな要素として行われてきた歴史経緯。北方からのロシアの侵略脅威に対して、日本社会が立ち上がって国土開発努力が傾けられてきた。
 しかし明治以前の江戸時代という一国平和体制が国民意識に深く沈殿してなのか、日本人は対外的な外交とか、国家戦略的な自らの立ち位置という論議には「熱しやすく冷めやすい」側面が大きいのではないか。とくに戦後社会ではある意味タブーとまでしてきたように思う。
 そういった流れの中で、元寇についての国民としての深い認識というものも欠けている。
 なんとなく「神風が吹いて、侵略勢力軍は船が難破して崩壊した」という認識。わたし自身も、それほどリアリティを持って認識していなかった。記録を見てみると元の軍兵が着ていた鎧の実物、兜などの戦闘具の現物などが保存されていて、実際的な「戦況」も解明されている。
 博多の街は上陸した元軍・侵略者によって一夜にして灰燼に帰した事実もわかる。国家としての侵略軍兵に対してほぼ1/3程度、総数10,000程度の九州各地域の武士層によって「抵抗した」というのが実態のように思える。当時の戦闘スタイルでは日本側武士層は単騎で敵前に進出し「名乗りを上げて」戦おうとしたという。鎌倉期の武士の意識として「武名を上げる」ことが最優先とされ個人戦優位の考え方が良く現れている。一方侵略軍は当然ながら数を頼んでの集団戦で、そうした鎌倉武士を各個撃破してきていた。指揮命令系統的にも「日本国家防衛軍」的な集団指導が為されていたとは言い難い。日本の「武士」というのは「国土防衛戦争」という概念自体を持てなかったのだ。一所懸命の「自分自身の領地」を保守し、そのなかでの権力を志向するのみの存在だった。言ってみれば国家観を持っていない状態。
 結果として侵略軍の上陸を許し、博多の市街地を炎上・灰燼にさせてしまった。「文永の役」の段階では日本人の意識としては、そのようだったと言えるのだろう。元寇の研究、明日以降につづく。

English version⬇

[Experiencing invasion and historically experiencing external pressure – Northern Kyushu]
The invading army occupied and attacked Japan with national will. The Kamakura warriors, on the other hand, were “single-minded” and “name first” in their outposts. They had no clear national defence strategy. …

 The photo above shows the aerial view of Hakata and Hakata Bay introduced yesterday, and a diorama of the ‘invasion’ of Yuan ships, which we were able to see at the Yuan Pirates Historical Museum for the first time. This situation is from the first invasion, the “Bun’ei no Yaku” in 1274, when Japanese society experienced this kind of devastation in the 13th century.
 In Hokkaido, too, the key to the northern gate was a major element of the state’s will and purpose in the development and colonisation of the island. In response to the threat of Russian aggression from the north, Japanese society rose to the occasion and efforts were made to develop the country.
 However, perhaps because of the one nation peace system of the Edo period (pre-Meiji period) that was deeply ingrained in the national consciousness, Japanese people tend to ‘easily cool down’ when discussing foreign diplomacy and their own position in terms of national strategy. Especially in post-war society, it seems to have been taboo in a sense.
 In this context, there is also a lack of a deep national awareness of the Genko.
 The perception is that ‘a kamikaze blew and the invading force’s army collapsed after their ships were wrecked’. I myself was not aware of it with that much reality. The records show that the actual armour worn by the original soldiers and actual battle gear such as helmets have been preserved, and the actual “battle situation” has also been clarified.
 It also shows the fact that the city of Hakata was burnt to ashes overnight by the landed Yuan troops and invaders. The actual situation seems to be that about 1/3 of the invading army as a nation was “resisted” by a total of about 10,000 samurai from the various regions of Kyushu. According to the fighting style of the time, the samurai on the Japanese side advanced into the enemy’s front line single-handedly and attempted to fight ‘by making a name for themselves’. In the awareness of the samurai of the Kamakura period, the highest priority was given to “raising one’s name”, and the idea of the superiority of individual warfare is well expressed. The invading army, on the other hand, naturally fought in groups, and defeated the Kamakura warriors individually. In terms of the chain of command, it is difficult to say that the group leadership of the “Japanese National Defence Force” was being implemented. The Japanese “warriors” were incapable of the concept of a “war of national defence”. They were only interested in maintaining their own territory and power within it. In other words, they had no national outlook.
 As a result, they allowed the invading army to land and burn the city of Hakata to the ground. The Japanese people’s consciousness at the time of the Bun’ei no Yaku could be described as such. Research on the Genko, to be continued tomorrow onwards.

 

【地下鉄で空港へ、街中からすぐフライトの博多】


 昨日夕方、博多の街から帰還しました。
 昨年にも家族で訪れていたのですが、約1年ぶりの訪問。街のサイズ感としてわたしのホームの札幌と近似している街ですが、そのせいなのか、歩いていて不思議と親近感を感じる。今回は急に日程したこともあってレンタカーなどは借りずに、もっとも街の雰囲気を感じられる「徒歩+地下鉄などの都市交通」という移動手段で都市居住体験をしてみたかった。
 おかげさまで昨日もトータル13,500歩超という歩数であちこちと散策してみていました。知人から勧められた「元寇史料館」から「筥﨑宮」など。やっぱりわたしの数寄としては歴史・ひとのいとなみ系のテーマでの散策が非常に性に合っている。とくに「元寇史料館」での元の軍兵たちが全身にまとっていた「モンゴル型・鎧」の現物展示には深く驚かされていた。
 知人によるとこうした展示、いわば「戦争記念館」のようなものは、世界中どの国でも、たとえその国が敗北した戦争についてであっても必ず「民族の運命」共同体意識のために設置されているけれど、わが国では、そういう先人たちの「血の記憶」の永続装置がない、と指摘していた。
 そういうなかでこの「元寇史料館」は数少ない民族史の貴重な「ナマ証言」だと思いました。
 ・・・というようなことでしたが、そういったテーマについては怒濤の4月にたくさん体験(取材)してきたので、別に記述していきたいと思います。
 で、午後3時過ぎには博多の街から福岡空港に地下鉄で移動。博多駅から2駅で到着するという全国的にも珍しい「街中空港」なんですね。伊丹よりも都心的な便利さ。写真はフライト早々に飛行場を「見返した」アングルで⬇を付けましたが、周囲にはびっしりと住宅地が立ち並んでいる。こういう環境でも大過なく運用されてきている関係のみなさんのご努力に深く敬意を持ちます。
 利用者側としては、このような感覚で飛行機移動を利用できるのはありがたい。そういえば土曜日に到着したときには街中で「花火大会」が開催されていたようで、空の上から幻想的な花火の様子を観覧させていただいていた。日本人的な伝統的美感と現代交通が調和していて、目がさめるような体験。そんな体験が、この街への「なんとなくスキ」という思いを深めてくれる。
 本日はさすがにカラダの疲れの積層感があって、高齢者としては「寝坊」(笑)。明日以降、怒濤の4月の探訪をまとめてみたいと思います。

English version⬇

[Hakata with an underground to the airport and flights right from the city]
This kind of travel environment is appreciated by users and creates a positive impression that leads to attachment to the city. Fukuoka (Hakata) is a modern, friendly city without the feeling of going out of your way. …

 I returned from the city of Hakata yesterday evening.
 I had visited the city with my family last year, but it had been about a year since my last visit. The city is similar in size to my home city of Sapporo, and perhaps because of this, I felt a strange sense of familiarity when I walked around the city. This time, because of my sudden schedule, I did not rent a car and wanted to experience urban living by walking + urban transport (e.g. underground), which is the best way to feel the atmosphere of the city.
 Thanks to this, I walked a total of more than 13,500 steps yesterday and tried walking here and there. From the Genko Historical Museum, which was recommended by an acquaintance, to the Hakozaki Palace. As I said, walking around with a theme of history and people’s lives suits me very well. In particular, I was deeply surprised by the display of the actual Mongolian-style armour worn by the Yuan soldiers at the Genko Historical Museum.
 An acquaintance of mine pointed out that such exhibitions, or “war memorials” as it were, are always set up in every country in the world, even in wars in which the country was defeated, for a sense of community and “national destiny”, but in Japan there is no such perpetuating device for the “blood memory” of our ancestors.
 In this context, I thought that this ‘Genko Historical Museum’ was one of the few precious ‘first-hand testimonies’ of national history.
 I would like to write about such themes separately, as I experienced (interviewed) a lot in April.
 So, after 3pm, I travelled by underground from the city of Hakata to Fukuoka Airport. It’s a “city airport”, which is rare in Japan, being only two stops from Hakata Station. It is more city-centre convenient than Itami. The photo was taken early in the flight from an angle “looking back” at the airfield ⬇ but the surrounding area is lined with residential areas. I have deep respect for the efforts of everyone involved, who have managed to operate in such an environment without any major problems.
 On the user side, I am grateful to be able to use air travel with this kind of feeling. By the way, when I arrived on Saturday, a “fireworks display” was being held in the city, and I was allowed to watch the fantastic fireworks display from the sky. An eye-opening experience, where the traditional Japanese sense of beauty and modern traffic are in harmony. Such an experience deepens my “somehow suki” feeling towards this city.
 Today, as expected, I had a layered feeling of fatigue in my body, and as an elderly person, I ‘overslept’ (laughs). From tomorrow onwards, I will try to summarise my exploration of the raging April.

 

【怒濤の日程だった4月の最後は博多・櫛田神社】


 この4月は電子書籍の「作家と住空間」発刊から始まって、その関連での3月末からの東京滞在があり、その後中旬には「AI人工知能EXPO」参加でふたたび東京晴海のビッグサイトでの説明員役務、その出張が終わってすぐに青森県・道南観桜旅。そこから帰ってすぐに博多にトンボ飛びして知人との会合参加などの日程を過ごしておりました。本日札幌帰還予定。
 こういういろいろな動きがあったので、それを整理整頓して次のステップに準備していかなければなりませんが、5月にはいまのところそういう動きを入れずに、落ち着いて過ごしたいと思います。
 写真は昨日撮影した櫛田神社の「山笠」。なぜか福岡ではこの櫛田神社周辺にご縁があるようで、昨年もこの近くに宿泊していましたが、今回も同様。よく福岡市は外部からの制服権力である黒田家の「福岡城」と市井の民衆の街である「博多」がバランスしている都市と言われますが、櫛田神社周辺というのがそういう「博多」らしさを残しているのでしょうか。空気感がスキです。
 青森の「ねぶた」にもやや似た祭典である「山笠」ですが、その山車のカラフルな人形群にはねぶたの極彩色感が共有されている。こういうデザインを嗜好する庶民感覚がいろいろなアートなどにも投影されていく部分なのでしょう。オモシロい。青森ではねぶた文化から棟方志功の版画世界や、先日触れた現代作家の奈良美智などのユニークな感覚が生成されたけれど、さて博多では?というところですが、北海道人としては、食文化や歴史性などの「総合性」文化に圧倒されるばかり。
 ・・・どうも福岡・博多とはわりと縁の近い事になってきたので、これからもその地域文化にとっぷりと浸っていきたいと思っております。

こういう行動活発化に根源的パワーを与えてくれるのは健康体力。きのうは博多の街をたっぷり味わいたいということで、1日中交通機関を使わずにひたすら歩いておりました。最近は出張先、東京で連日10,000歩超だったのですが、昨日は大きく超えて2万歩に迫る勢いでした。これはあきらかに過ぎたるはなお、ではありますが、ひとつの「鍛錬」にはなると思います。しかし、さすがに歩き方は「ゆったり」気味で推移していました(笑)。まぁ、ムリせず健康第一を心がけたい。

English version⬇

The last of April, which was a raging schedule, was at Kushida Shrine in Hakata.
In a completely spring-coloured landscape, I walked and walked and walked, walking a little less than 20,000 steps. I walked a little less than 20,000 steps in the spring scenery. I’m going to cultivate my health and fitness without being too strenuous. …

 This April started with the publication of the e-book ‘Writers and Living Space’, followed by a stay in Tokyo from the end of March in connection with the publication, then in mid-March I participated in the ‘AI Artificial Intelligence EXPO’, again as a briefing officer at Big Sight in Harumi, Tokyo, and immediately after that business trip I went on a cherry blossom viewing trip in Aomori and Donan prefectures. After that, I immediately flew to Hakata to attend a meeting with acquaintances. I am scheduled to return to Sapporo today.
 I need to sort out these various activities and prepare for the next step, but I would like to spend a calm time in May without such activities at the moment.
 The photo shows the Yamakasa festival at Kushida Shrine, taken yesterday. For some reason, Fukuoka seems to have a connection with this area around Kushida Shrine, and we stayed near here last year, and this time is no different. It is often said that Fukuoka City is a city where the uniformed power of the Kuroda family from the outside, the “Fukuoka Castle”, and the city of the common people, “Hakata”, are in balance, and I wonder if the area around Kushida Shrine retains that kind of “Hakata” character. I like the atmosphere.
 Yamakasa is a festival somewhat similar to Aomori’s Nebuta, but the colourful dolls on the floats share Nebuta’s extreme colourfulness. The sense of the common people’s preference for this kind of design is probably a part of what is projected onto various art forms. Interesting. In Aomori, the Nebuta culture has given rise to the unique sensibilities of Munakata Shiko’s print world and the contemporary artist Nara Yoshitomo, whom I mentioned the other day. As a Hokkaido resident, I am overwhelmed by the “totality” of the culture, including the food culture and historical aspects.
 I am very much looking forward to immersing myself in the local culture of Fukuoka and Hakata, which I have come to know very well.

It is health and fitness that provides the fundamental power for this kind of activation. Yesterday, I spent the whole day walking without using public transport in order to fully enjoy the city of Hakata. Recently, I have been walking more than 10,000 steps every day on my business trips to Tokyo, but yesterday I exceeded that number by a wide margin and was close to 20,000 steps. This is obviously too much, but I think it’s a good ‘workout’. However, as expected, I was walking in a “relaxed” way (laughs). Well, I want to put my health first.

 

【函館と言えば「谷地頭温泉」が地元民の定番】


 今回の青森−道南観桜旅、青森からフェリーで帰還後、夫婦旅の定番・函館市内の「谷地頭温泉」へ。この温泉は「公営温泉」として長く函館市が経営していた歴史があり市民に親しまれてきた。歴史的には以下のよう。(概略Wiki記述より)
 〜1878年の函館大火のあと当時湿地帯であった谷地頭地区が宅地造成され1881年竣工。翌1882年事業家・勝田銀蔵によって温泉掘削が行われた。その源泉に対し戦後直後、函館水道局(現、函館市企業局上下水道部)に新しい湯元の開発が持ちかけられた。ちょうど湯の川温泉の温泉供給管に付着するガリ対策の目処がついたこともあり、1949年8月にかつてあった料亭「浅田楼」の土地(谷地頭町25番地)購入する施策案が函館市議会で決議。翌1950年に市民より谷地頭町17番地も寄付され1951年ボーリングを実施して源泉開発が行われ、1953年2月に市営谷地頭温泉として開業した。しかし1998年をピークに利用者数が落ち込み、翌1999年から赤字が続いていたため、2013年4月に函館市から株式会社ケーケーエムに建物等が売却され民営化されて今日に至っている。〜

 ちょうどわたし自身の生年時期に公営温泉として開業し、約60年後の今から12年ほど前に役割を終え民営化されたのだが、なにか自分自身の人生行路と並行するような感覚がある。
 実はわたしは函館に奇縁があって、子種に恵まれなかった函館在住の叔父がわたしを養子に欲しがっていたのだ。叔父の姉である母は末子であるわたしを連れて各地を探訪したけれど、函館にはなんども訪問した記憶がある。母はわたしに一生残る特異なコトバの記憶を残した。それが「叔父さんのところに養子に行くか?」という打診。わたしは即座に「絶対イヤだ!」と叫んでいた。その肉声はいまも心底に横たわっている。
 ・・・それでその件は沙汰止みになったのだけれど、当のわたしの内部には記憶が深く沈殿せざるを得なかった。五稜郭やこの谷地頭温泉、函館の庶民感覚への「愛着」の断片に、そのことが関わっているように思える人生を過ごしてきた。「もしもあのとき」心理。そして母の心事にこころが至っての愛惜の情感。
 谷地頭の温泉に浸かって「地元民」的にいっとき過ごすことが、いつか定番化した。
 ふと、温泉の暖簾に目が止まってカメラに収めていた(笑)。この和歌は男女の縁を詠ったとされ、事実、女風呂にも十二単のような衣装の女性が描かれた暖簾があったけれど、和歌の意味、言の葉がより深く、感受されていた。・・・

English version⬇
 
Hakodate is the local people’s staple ‘Yajigashira Onsen’.
A sense of affection for Hakodate ‘Jimottee’ and a faint, deep sense of impermanence. The words of the phrase ‘Seho-yami iwa ni sekaruru’ (‘I will never give up on a rock’) after going through life’s journey. …

 On this Aomori-Donan cherry blossom viewing trip, after returning by ferry from Aomori, we went to Yajigashira Onsen in Hakodate City, a regular destination for couples travelling together. This hot spring has a long history of being run by Hakodate City as a “public hot spring” and is well known to citizens. The history is as follows. (From Wiki description)
– After the Great Hakodate Fire of 1878, the Yajigashira area, which was a swampy area at the time, was developed into a housing estate, which was completed in 1881. The following year, 1882, the hot spring was drilled by the entrepreneur Katsuta Ginzo. Immediately after the war, the Hakodate Waterworks Bureau (now the Water Supply and Sewerage Department of the Hakodate Municipal Enterprise Bureau) was approached to develop a new hot spring source for the source. In August 1949, the Hakodate City Council passed a resolution to purchase the land (25 Yajigashira-cho) of the Asadaro ryotei (Japanese-style restaurant), which had previously been located there. The following year, in 1950, citizens donated 17 Yajigashira-cho, and in 1951, drilling was carried out to develop the source, which was opened as the municipal Yajigashira Onsen in February 1953. However, the number of visitors peaked in 1998 and the spa had been losing money since 1999, so in April 2013 the building was sold by Hakodate City to KKM Co. ~

 It was opened as a public hot spring just at the time of my birth, and about 60 years later, about 12 years ago, it finished its role and was privatised, but I have the feeling that it parallels my own life path.
 In fact, I have an unusual connection to Hakodate, where my uncle, who lived in Hakodate and was not blessed with any children, wanted to adopt me. My mother, my uncle’s sister, took me, his youngest child, to visit many places, and I remember visiting Hakodate many times. My mother left me with a memory of a peculiar word that will stay with me for the rest of my life. She asked me if I wanted to be adopted by my uncle. I immediately said, ‘Absolutely not’. I immediately shouted, “Absolutely not! I immediately shouted, “Absolutely not! That voice still lies deep in my heart.
 … and so the matter was put to rest, but the memory had to settle deep down inside me. I have spent my life feeling that it is part of my “attachment” to Goryokaku, this Yajigashira hot spring and the common people’s sense of Hakodate. The ‘what if then’ mentality. And the feeling of regret when one’s heart is touched by one’s mother’s affairs.
 Soaking in the hot springs of Yajigashira and spending a few moments in a “local” way became a regular occurrence.
 Suddenly, my eyes stopped on the noren (curtain) of the hot spring and I took a picture of it with my camera (laughs). This waka poem is said to be about the bond between a man and a woman, and in fact, there was a curtain in the women’s bath with a woman dressed in a juni-hitoe-like costume, but the meaning and words of the poem were more deeply felt and appreciated. … 
 

【弘前の美術館にて奈良美智作品と再会 🎵】


さて、昨日ようやくわが家に帰還いたしました。日曜日20日からだったので今週はほぼデスクワークを離れておりました。夕方帰ったのですが、以前から時間アポをしていた官公庁からのビジネス連絡を受けた。
 で、必要と言われた公的書類の指示があって取り寄せを了解したのですが、2つの書類とも有効期限内の取り置きがあったので、さっそく返信して必要な届出について、電話で逐一確認しながら完了させることが出来た。なかなかお役所との対応は細かな点についての注意が求められるので、たくさんの案件を進行させているビジネスの現場感覚からすると、あまりにも内容が細かすぎて対応がメンドイ(泣)。
 今回のことも、先方から一度は「完了通知」を受け取ったけれど、官庁組織内部での細かいチェックの結果、微細な部分の修正申告を、というような内容。それもはるかに時間経過後〜約半年経ってからの対応依頼。まぁ、やむを得ないとは思うのですが、ビジネス的効率から考えるとどう考えても割に合わない。う〜む、であります。
 この案件は旅行期間中、しずかに進行していたのですがまずは一段落。
 で、観桜旅道中の写真整理をちょっと。今回青森で、以前〜たぶん10年くらい前、青森県立美術館で見て大好きになっていた奈良美智(よしとも)さんの美術作品、巨大イヌの彫像作品と再会することが出来ていたのです。作品は写真の通りでして、弘前の「レンガ倉庫美術館」での再会でした。
 おお、とその予期していなかった再会に驚き、一気にその醸し出されている雰囲気にこころがすっかり奪われていた。奈良さんは美智という名前の文字から女性と誤解されたりしているのですが男性だそうです。って、その作品については好きになったけれど、そんなに作家について調査したりしていなかったので、今回ようやく作家について多少、知識を集めることができた(笑)。ただ、まるでNHKの「チコちゃん」と近似した(チコちゃんは奈良さんとは無関係)女の子キャラが巨大オブジェになっていたように記憶残像がアタマにこびりついていた。人間の記憶というのは相当にいい加減のようですが、ひょっとしてそういう作品も実際にあるのかも知れません。今後、要チェックであります。
 さて、実は本日から駆け足で今度は、九州博多へのトンボ飛び(笑)。これも終われば疾風怒濤の4月がようやく終了。静かなGWにあとひと息であります。ふ〜。

English version⬇

[Reunited with Yoshitomo Nara’s works at a museum in Hirosaki 🎵]
Yoshitomo is a male artist whose name is written Yoshitomo. A native of Tsugaru. Influenced by his style, did he also derive from NHK Chikochan? I am an elderly person, but I love this kind of thing. …

Well, I finally returned to our home yesterday. I had been away from my desk for most of the week as I had been there since Sunday 20. I returned home in the evening and received a business contact with a public office with whom I had previously made a time appointment.
 So, I was instructed on the official documents they said I needed, and I agreed to order them, but both documents were on hold until the expiry date, so I was able to quickly reply and complete the necessary notifications, checking every step of the way over the phone. It is not easy to deal with the bureaucracy, as attention to detail is required, and from a business perspective, where many projects are in progress, the details are too detailed and difficult to deal with (tears).
 In this case, too, we received a “notice of completion” from the other party, but as a result of a detailed check within the government organisation, we had to file a revised declaration for the smallest details. It was also a request for a response after much time had passed – about six months. Well, I think it’s unavoidable, but from a business efficiency point of view, it’s not worth it. It’s a bit of a problem.
 Such matters had been going on quietly during the trip, but first of all they were settled.
 So, a bit of photo organisation during the cherry blossom viewing trip. This time in Aomori, I was reunited with a giant canine sculpture by Yoshitomo Nara, a work of art that I had seen and loved at the Aomori Museum of Art about 10 years ago. The work is shown in the photo, and we met again at the ‘Brick Warehouse Museum’ in Hirosaki.
 I was surprised by the unexpected reunion and was at once captivated by the atmosphere that was being created. Mr Nara is sometimes mistaken for a woman because of the letters in his name, Yoshitomo, but he says he is a man. I had not done that much research on the artist, although I liked his work, so I was finally able to gather some knowledge about the artist this time (laughs). However, I had an afterimage stuck in my mind as if there was a huge object of a girl character similar to NHK’s ‘Chikochan’ (Chikochan has nothing to do with Nara-san). Human memory seems to be quite lax, but perhaps there are actually such works. I will have to check them out in the future.
 Well, as a matter of fact, I’m off to Kyushu-Hakata in a hurry from today (laughs). When this too is over, the fast and furious month of April will finally come to an end. We are just a few more days away from a quiet GW. Whew.

【青森から松前へ、海上はるかに岩木山遠望】


 一昨日は夜に函館にフェリーで到着。で、観桜ツアーとして昨日は道南・松前に移動。
 なんですが、わたし的には道中から海上に遠望されていた山影に見入っていた。そうなんです、これまでもたぶん気付いてはいたハズだけれど、津軽海峡はるかに「岩木山」が見えていたのです。写真はiPhone撮影でおぼろげですが・・・。
 昔人は現代人よりもはるかに「遠望視力」が優れていた。このように岩木山が見えることとこの地に本州津軽地域での内戦敗残の結果、逃れてきた武装勢力である「安東氏勢力」にとって、父祖の地の象徴である岩木山が辛うじて遠望できることをどのように受け止めていたか。そういう心象について、はじめて気付かされていた。
 津軽半島西端の十三湊という北方アジア世界との交易拠点を長く支配してきた勢力・安東氏。
 この士族の栄枯盛衰の推移は北海道人としては、北海道に残る数少ない明治期以前の日本史との接点として関心はあった。そしてそれなりに道南の故地を探訪したりもしてきたのだけれど、このように岩木山の山影が海上はるかに見える場所がこの松前なのだと今更ながら気付いて、はじめてかれらの心象風景が覚醒。まさに点が線として繋がった気がしていた。
 北海道人としてはなぜかれらが北海道のもっと広闊な地域に展開せずに、ひたすら本州を見晴るかす「さいはて」の地にこだわり続けていたのか、不思議だった。そういう安東氏一統のこころにはこの岩木山が大きく存在したことがわかったのですね。
 かつて父祖が支配していた失地を遠く望みつつ、そのノスタルジーが強く沈殿し続けていたのだろうか。そういう「後ろ髪」引かれる心情のまま、数百年の永きを生きてきていたのか、と。北海道の大地は、かの時代の本州人にとって酷寒の地。農業立国はその志のかけらも見いだせず、ただただ現地のアイヌ民族との「交易」だけが自分たちとの生存基盤だと思い定めていたのだろう。
 明治国家はその国際的存亡を掛けて「北門の鎖鑰」意識を持ち続け、殖産移民を国策として継続し続けてきたことで、ようやく今日、北海道は500万人を超える人口を有している。たかが道南の局地支配権程度の経済力では、北海道開拓という事業は夢想だに出来なかったのだろう。
 わたしは岩木山が大好きです。そしてこの遠望の光景は日本人としてかすかにDNAに残置されたなにごとかの証明なのかも知れませんね。

English version⬇

Aomori to Matsumae, with a distant view of Mount Iwaki far out to sea.
What the distant view of Mount Iwaki tells us. The difference in mentality between the immigrants and the Matsumae samurai who have been stationed in the southern part of Hokkaido since the Meiji era, even though they are all Hokkaido people. …

 The day before yesterday, they arrived by ferry in Hakodate at night. And yesterday we moved to Matsumae in southern Hokkaido as part of a cherry blossom viewing tour.
 I had been looking at the mountains in the distance on the way to Matsumae, but I had not noticed them before. Yes, I probably would have noticed it before, but I could see Mount Iwaki in the distance across the Tsugaru Strait. The photo was taken with an iPhone, so it’s a bit fuzzy…
 People in the past had far better “far-sightedness” than people today. How did the Ando clan, the armed forces who fled to this area as a result of the defeat in the civil war in the Tsugaru region of Honshu, perceive the fact that they could barely see Mt Iwaki, the symbol of the land of their fathers, in the distance? I was made aware of these mental images for the first time.
 The Ando clan, a power that has long controlled the trading post of Tosaminato on the western edge of the Tsugaru Peninsula, a trading post with the northern Asian world.
 As a Hokkaido resident, I was interested in the rise and fall of this samurai clan as one of the few remaining points of contact with Japanese history in Hokkaido prior to the Meiji period. I have also visited the former places in southern Hokkaido, but it was only now that I realised that Matsumae was the place where the shadow of Mount Iwaki could be seen far out to sea, that my mental image of these people was awakened. It was as if the dots were connected as a line.
 As a Hokkaido resident, I wondered why they did not expand into the wider area of Hokkaido, but instead continued to stick to the land of ‘Saihate’, where they could look out over Honshu. It turned out that Mt Iwaki was a major part of the Ando clan’s heart.
 Did they continue to have strong nostalgia for the lost lands of their fathers, which they had once ruled over, while looking far away? Had they lived for hundreds of years with that kind of ‘backward’ feeling? The land of Hokkaido was a land of bitter cold for the people of Honshu in those days. They probably did not have any aspirations to become an agricultural nation, and had decided that trade with the local Ainu people was the only basis for their own survival.
 The Meiji State, with its international survival at stake, has maintained a “key to the northern gate” and has continued to pursue colonisation and immigration as a national policy, so that today Hokkaido finally has a population of more than five million. The economic power of the local government in the southern part of Hokkaido could not have dreamt up the development of Hokkaido.
 I love Mount Iwaki. And this distant view may be proof of something faintly left in our DNA as Japanese people.

 
 

【古民家直撃? 落雷か積雪荷重で倒壊か in青森浪岡】



 全国の住宅行脚を続けていると各地の古民家にその土地らしさをみて感動することが多い。そうした古民家が長い時間推移を生き延びてきた様子に、ひたすら打たれてくるのですね。
 そういうなかで以前に一度訪ねた古民家、それも地域自治体が管理に当たっていた古民家が崩壊しているというケースを見ることはなかった。しかし今回、たまたま再訪した青森市浪岡の古民家の崩壊現場をまざまざと目撃させられてしまった。写真の通りのような状況でした。
ちなみに2024年1月に訪問したときの全景写真は以下の通り。

 左手側は主屋で2階建てで構造的にもしっかりと軸組構成されていたけれど、右手側には土間の大空間が広がっていて、たしかに構造は簡素な造りとは言えた。
 こういう事態に至っていたので、当然説明とかを見たり聞いたりすることは出来ませんでしたが、重厚な萱葺き屋根がこのように崩壊するというというのは衝撃的。一度でもその空間に触れていた人間としては、まるで知人の訃報を知ったような無念さが感じられた。古民家はその空間性から、深く建築と人間の暮らしぶりを感じさせてくれる存在なので、単に無機質な空間の破綻とは思われない。
 さらに茅葺き屋根はイキモノのような柔構造での破綻の仕方を見せていて、まるで自然の中での動物たちの骸にも似た衝撃波をもって観る者に迫ってくる。ドライブしていると、自然の動物たちが無念の交通事故死を迎えた様子を目にせざるを得ないけれど、それとよく似たイキモノ感。
 ついさっきまで生きていたままの生々しさが周辺の雰囲気に漂っている。科学的な理解が行き渡る以前の昔人が感じていただろう「霊性」までそこにはあるかのようだ。
 茅葺きというのはそのような「素性」の素材なのだと言うことが胸に響いてくる。
 同様のことは、雷に打たれてその衝撃で幹が断裂を引き起こしてしまった自然木の骸からも感じさせられた。たくさんの住空間を見て来たけれど、その「終のカタチ」というものをマジマジと見せつけられた思い。どんなに愛着を持ってあたっても、逃れることの出来ない定めを見せつけられる。
 このあと、わたしは本州・青森の地を離れて北海道に船で向かったのだけれど、胸に沈殿してくる感覚を抑えることができなかった。諸行無常。

English version⬇

A direct hit on an old private house? Collapsed by lightning strike or snow load in Aomori Namioka].
The presence of the voice of the bell of the Gion Seisha… comes to those who have touched the space even once. The thatched wreckage of a raw, immaterial feeling. …

 As I continue my nationwide tour of houses, I am often impressed by the local character of the old houses in different parts of the country. And I am constantly struck by the way these old private houses have survived the passage of time.
 In this context, I had never seen a case where an old private house that I had visited once before, and which had been managed by the local authority, had collapsed. This time, however, I happened to revisit an old house in Namioka, Aomori City, and was forced to witness the scene of its collapse. The situation was as shown in the picture.
Incidentally, a panoramic view of the house when we visited in January 2024 is shown below.

 The left-hand side was the main building, two storeys high and firmly constructed on an axis, but on the right-hand side there was a large space with an earthen floor, and the structure could certainly be described as a simple structure.
 Naturally, I was not able to ask for an explanation of what had happened, but it was shocking to hear that the massive thatched roof had collapsed in this way. As someone who had once been in contact with the space, I felt a sense of regret, as if I had just learned of the death of an acquaintance. Old houses cannot be considered simply as a collapse of inorganic space, as their spatiality gives us a deep sense of architecture and the way people lived.
 Furthermore, the thatched roof shows the collapse of a soft structure like that of an inanimate object, and approaches the viewer with a shockwave similar to that of the wreckage of animals in nature. When driving, you can’t help but see animals in nature that have died in regrettable car accidents, and this film has a similar feeling of being alive.
 There is a vividness in the atmosphere of the surroundings, as if they were still alive just a few moments ago. It is as if there is even a ‘spirituality’ that people in the past, before scientific understanding, would have felt.
 The fact that thatch is a material of such ‘nature’ resonates in my heart.
 The same thing was also felt from the wreckage of a natural tree that had been struck by lightning and the impact had caused a rupture in the trunk. I have seen many living spaces, but I felt as if I was being seriously shown their ‘final form’. No matter how attached we are to our homes, we are shown a fate from which we cannot escape.
 After this, I left Honshu and Aomori and headed for Hokkaido by boat, but I could not suppress the sensation that settled in my heart. The impermanence of all things.
 

【初めての「集中豪雨」型観桜 弘前城のサクラ】


 さて昨日は初めて来て見た「弘前城のサクラ見物」でした。
 弘前城はごく普通にビジネス旅で弘前を訪れる際には、早朝散歩などでよく見知ってはいる歴史感公スポットなので、何回かは訪れております。しかしそれは常に仕事上のスケジュールでの探訪だったので、個人的な「歴史好き」からの興味探訪。観桜スポットとしていまや全世界に知られたこの時期に来て見たのは、まったく初めての経験でありました。
 感想は、まことに人出の多さ、クルマの大渋滞・・・。すごい。
 日本人の季節感文化の中で観桜は、その中核に位置している。いかにも、な「もののあはれ」が体感できる最高の舞台装置なのでしょう。わたし個人としての妄想としては、古事記におけるその命名の精妙さにおどろかされている「コノハナサクヤ」姫とニニギノミコトの出会いのシーンの背景として想像される浜辺で、開花目前のサクラに対して、この姫が樹木に問うた言の葉ではと。
 そういう姫御子のサクラへの日本人的な心情は、縄文あるいはそれ以前からのこの列島の自然環境の中で、多くの人びとが共有できる季節感情の極限なのでしょう。
 クルマであちこち青森県内を移動している間、夫婦での会話では「いや〜、あちこち、サクラ並木が多いよね〜」でありました。北海道は、サクラの生育に適していないという明治以来の「植物環境意識」のなかで欧米的な「ポプラ」「アカシア」みたいな並木道を作ってきたけれど、そしてそれが北海道的な「エキゾチズム」を日本社会に沈殿させてきたけれど、本州以南地域では、ひたすらこの「コノハナサクヤ」的な心情のエコーチェンバー社会の中、サクラを植え続けてきたように思う。それもDNA的に1個体であるとされるソメイヨシノを一択のように植樹し続けてきた民族社会性。結局、北海道のサクラのメインはいまだに「ヤマザクラ」であることも象徴的だと思える。
 そういうサクラの集合美感を「愛でたい」という、しずかなしかし、熱い民衆的心情熱狂。
 ながく列島最北端と意識してきた弘前の武家大名家として、その場内にサクラを植樹し続けてきた士族にとってサクラの景観は民衆支配の大きな舞台装置でもあったのかと思われる。
 ・・・ということですが、カミさんが少女の時に義父が家族旅行で弘前の観桜旅をした、ということでその夢のような光景が彼女のこころに焼き付いてしまったとのこと。そのセンチメンタルジャーニーが今回の旅の出発動機。まだ、満開まではすこし時間があるようですが、しかし、ニッポンの春を実感させられております。さて、明後日には北海道にてサクラ前線をお迎えします。

English version⬇

First ‘torrential rain’ type cherry blossom viewing at Hirosaki Castle.
The unique naming of the beautiful woman Konohanasakuya in the Kojiki. The delusion that the tree was a cherry tree. A quiet national enthusiasm for the beauty of the collective landscape. …

 Yesterday was the first time I visited Hirosaki Castle to see the sakura (cherry blossoms).
 I have visited Hirosaki Castle several times when I visit Hirosaki on business trips, as it is a public spot with a sense of history that I am familiar with from early morning walks and the like. However, these visits were always on a business schedule, so I was interested in the castle out of a personal ‘love of history’. It was the first time for me to come and see the cherry blossoms at this time of the year, which is now known all over the world as a cherry blossom viewing spot.
 My impression was that there were really a lot of people and a huge traffic jam of cars… It was amazing.
 Cherry blossom viewing is at the heart of Japanese seasonal culture. It is probably the best stage setting in which to experience the very real ‘mono no ahare’. My own personal fantasy is that this could be the words of the Princess Konohanasakuya and Niniginomikoto, whose exquisite naming in the Kojiki is astonishing, asking the trees about the sakura just before they blossomed on the beach, which is imagined as the background to the encounter scene between the Princess Konohanasakuya and Niniginomikoto.
 The Japanese sentiment of the Princess and Child towards the sakura is probably the extreme limit of seasonal feelings shared by many people in the natural environment of the archipelago since the Jomon period or even before.
 While travelling by car from place to place in Aomori Prefecture, the couple’s conversation was ‘Oh no, there are so many sakura trees here and there’. Since the Meiji era (1868-1912), Hokkaido has created tree-lined avenues lined with Western-style poplar and acacia trees in the context of a ‘plant environment consciousness’ that cherry trees are not suitable for growing in Hokkaido, and this has precipitated a Hokkaido-style ‘exoticism’ in Japanese society, but in the areas south of Honshu, there is no end to this ‘konohanasakuya’ (cherry tree) sentiment. In the south of Honshu, cherry trees have been planted in a society of echo chambers of this ‘Konohana sakuya’ mentality. The ethnic social nature of this society is such that the Someiyoshino, which is considered to be a single individual in terms of DNA, has been planted continuously as if it were the only choice. It is also symbolic that the main type of cherry tree in Hokkaido is still the yamazakura.
 The quiet but passionate emotional fervour of the people who want to ‘love’ the collective beauty of these cherry trees.
 The samurai feudal lords of Hirosaki, who have long been aware of the northernmost point of the archipelago, have continued to plant sakura trees in the area, and it seems that the sakura landscape was also a major stage device for the domination of the people.
 When Kami was a girl, her father-in-law took her on a family trip to Hirosaki to see the cherry blossoms, and the dream-like scene was burned into her mind. That sentimental journey was the starting point for this trip. There is still some time to go before the cherry blossoms are in full bloom, but I can really feel the spring in Japan. The day after tomorrow, we will welcome the sakura front in Hokkaido.