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【冬・寒さがもたらす雪氷美とちょっと危険な造形】



週末は北海道日本海側は風雪が強まるという冬の嵐の予報。いよいよ来るか冬将軍様・・・であります。用心しながら過ごしたいと思いますが、写真はここのところの寒波でのわが家周辺の「冬の景観」です。寒さには独特の美のたたずまいがある。上の写真は発寒川の段差、言ってみれば人工の滝ですが、そこが結氷している様子。だんだんと震え上がるような結氷美を見せてくれるようになる。恐る恐る見るのはやや自虐感があるけれど、寒冷地の人間の密かな楽しみ(笑)。冬でもあったかい家の中と、まっ盛りの冬の寒さがコントラストを暮らしに与えてくれる。その落差が大きいほど、花鳥風月感が深まる・・・。
西行のような詩人が現代の北海道を旅してくれたら、どんな心象風景を謳るか、想像すると面白みがある。やはり高断熱高気密という住環境がほぼ普遍的に獲得されてからは、冬の外部環境を楽しむ余裕が生まれてきて、それなりの体験が熟成してきている。日本人にどんな新・花鳥風月を追加できていくのか、興味を持っている次第。

そういう新・花鳥風月のテーマとして写真のような家と雪氷がもたらすオモシロ風景がある。まぁ、住宅性能的に見ればこれは屋根の断熱が十分ではなくて室内の熱が屋根トタン面にまで漏出し、屋根面で凍結爆裂融雪を繰り返して、結果、屋根端部にずり下がっていく光景。いわゆる「雪庇(せっぴ)」という現象であります。写真は非住居の建物で数日前の撮影ですが、毎年の気温変化・降雪量推移によって千変万化する。屋根の軒先から50-60cm程度張り出している。いまのところ日中最高気温も零下なので、屋根面雪崩は発生していませんが、温度変化によってはそういう危険もあり得る。まだそこまでではないのですが、もうちょっと危険性が高まると警告のコーンが設置されたりする。危険性が「見える化」しているので歩行者のみなさんも充分注意する。寒冷地としての生活常識も存在する。
ただ、わたしの少年期などではこういう雪庇や氷柱などが街中至るところで発生していて、それが当たり前だったから、動物的な危険回避の臨界感覚が育っていたかも知れない。屋根雪崩はだいたい、2−3月の晩冬時期の危険性が高い。とはいえ、冬の期間中こういう軒先付近にはなるべく近づかないようにはすべきでしょう。そういう危険性はあるけれど、一個の造形物と考えるとまことに「冬の風物詩」。ことしの冬のいろいろな気候痕跡が正直に露出しているので、興味深くもある。
さて夜の間にしっかり降ってくれたので、除雪頑張ります(泣)。

English version⬇

Winter, cold weather brings snow and ice beauty and slightly dangerous formations.
A weekend of heavy snowfall. The snowfall was so heavy that my body is screaming from every node. The peak of winter is just around the corner. …

A winter storm is forecast for the weekend, with wind and snow strengthening on the Sea of Japan side of Hokkaido. The winter storm is forecast to intensify wind and snow in the Sea of Japan area of Hokkaido over the weekend. The photo shows the “winter landscape” around our house during the recent cold wave. Cold weather has its own unique beauty. The photo above is a step of the Hassamu River, a man-made waterfall if you will, where the ice is forming. It gradually shows us the beauty of ice formation that makes us shiver, and although it is somewhat self-deprecating to see it with trepidation, it is a secret pleasure for people living in cold regions (laugh). The contrast between the warmth of a house in winter and the coldness of winter at its height provides a contrast to our lives. The greater the difference between the two, the deeper the sense of “kacho-fu-getsu” (flowers, birds, winds, and the moon) becomes.
It is interesting to imagine what a poet like Saigyo would say if he were to travel to Hokkaido today. After all, since the almost universal adoption of a highly insulated and airtight living environment, people have been afforded the luxury of enjoying the external environment in winter, and the experience has matured in its own way. I am interested to see what kind of new “kacho-fu-getsu” (the Japanese traditional seasonal festivals of flowers, birds, and winds) will be added to the Japanese people’s experience of the winter.

One such new Kacho Fugetsu theme is the wacky scenery brought about by the house and snow and ice, as shown in the photo. Well, from a housing performance point of view, this is a scene where the roof insulation is not sufficient and the heat inside leaks out to the tin surface of the roof, causing the snow to freeze, explode, and melt repeatedly on the roof surface, resulting in the snow sliding down to the edge of the roof. This is the so-called “snow eaves” phenomenon. The photo was taken a few days ago on a non-residential building, but it changes drastically depending on annual temperature and snowfall changes. The snow is sticking out about 50-60 cm from the eaves of the roof. At the moment, the maximum daytime temperature is also below zero, so no roof-surface avalanches have occurred, but such a danger is possible depending on temperature changes. It is not to that extent yet, but when the danger increases a little more, warning cones will be installed. Since the danger is “visualized,” pedestrians should be very careful. There is also the common sense of living in a cold region.
However, when I was a boy, such snow cover and icicles were commonplace throughout the city, and I may have developed a critical sense of danger avoidance like an animal. Roof avalanches are usually most dangerous in the late winter months of February and March. Nevertheless, we should try to stay away from such areas near the eaves during the winter months. Despite these dangers, when considered as an artifact, it is truly a “winter wonder”. It is also interesting because it honestly exposes various traces of the winter climate.
Now that it fell during the night, I’m going to work hard to remove the snow.

【メディアの発展と興亡・浮世絵-4 江戸期・房総町家-13】




浮世絵という表現形式を得て、日本の出版文化は実質的に産声を上げた。それまでの日本美術とは宗教寺院や支配層への奉仕が主たる生存形式であって、狩野派などの絵画制作集団はときの権力機構などに寄生してその維持を図ってきた存在だった。狩野派は権力者の城郭襖絵などの「公共建築需要」を受注落札する専門的集団であって一種の美術版ゼネコン的存在だったと思える。また「鎌倉殿の13人」でも登場した運慶はあのように権力に取り入ることで創作の機会を得てきていた。わたしがいちばん好きな日本画「風神雷神図」俵屋宗達作品は京都の名刹寺院からの注文製作だった。そのようなひとつの伝統的ジャンルとして「洛中洛外図屏風絵」があって、国宝に指定されているのが舟木本・岩佐又兵衛筆作品。かれがこのジャンルの集大成作品を生み出した後、活躍の舞台を京都から江戸に移して、浮世絵文化への橋渡し役を果たしたと言われている。
日本絵画は京都が主流だった時代には画題テーマは宗教であったり、王朝文学の背景画であったり、障壁画などであったものが、江戸では浮世絵文化の勃興とともに画題がビッグバンして、市井の名所図会・役者絵・美人画と直接的な大衆の興味分野にシフトしていった。まさに「芸術の大衆化」だった。
個人的な思いかも知れないけれど芸術家というのは日本では余技として描いた作品の方が多くの人に愛されているのではないだろうか。わたしは俵屋宗達と、岩佐又兵衛に強く惹かれているけれど、どうも専業画家というよりも別に生計を立てていて、画業は余技というスタイルが、むしろ民衆のこころには響くなにごとかがあるのではないかと思っている。俵屋宗達は扇の専門店を経営していたと言われる。キャンバスに向かう心理に於いて自由さがあって、制作するこころに狭量を感じないということではないか。

今日、メディアは大きな転換期に差し掛かっている。WEBによる既存メディアの革新は留まるところを知らないけれど、一方で個人の価値感世界だけを押しつけるような動画などは早くも壁に突き当たり始めてきている。いわゆるYouTuberの停滞・行き詰まりが指摘されてきている。ある特定個人の言説だけを信奉し依存するというのではまるで新興宗教のようでそれはやはり危険性が高い。公平性・客観性という価値感はやはり不可欠な情報要素なのだと思う。メディアは情報の公平な「広場」機能であるべきで、最終的判断は情報の受けてが自己判断できるその材料を提供するのが本来の使命だろう。
そんな時代の中で、浮世絵という日本社会が経験してきたニューメディアの興亡ぶりから今日学ぶべきことも多いのではないか。歴史からいろいろな真実を汲み取って活かしていく必要があるのでしょう。

English version⬇

The Development and Rise and Fall of the Media, Ukiyoe-4: Edo Period, Boso Machiya-13
Today’s media are in a state of confusion. There are many things to be learned from the historical transition of Ukiyo-e with an open mind. …

With the acquisition of ukiyoe as a form of expression, Japan’s publishing culture was practically born. Until then, Japanese art had mainly existed as a service to religious temples and the ruling class, and painting groups such as the Kano school were parasites on the power structure of the time in order to maintain their existence. The Kano school was a group that specialized in bidding for “public building needs,” such as sliding door paintings of castles for powerful people, and it seems to have been a kind of art version of a general contractor. Unkei, who also appeared in “The Thirteen of Kamakura-dono,” had the opportunity to create works by taking advantage of the power of the authorities. My favorite Japanese painting, “The Wind and Thunder Gods,” by Sotatsu Tawaraya, was commissioned by a famous temple in Kyoto. One such traditional genre is “Rakuchu Rakugai-zu Byobu-e,” and the Funaki version, by Iwasa Matabei, is designated a national treasure. After he created the culmination of this genre, he moved the stage of his activities from Kyoto to Edo, where he is said to have served as a bridge to the Ukiyoe culture.
In the Kyoto period when Japanese painting was the mainstream, the themes of paintings were religion, backgrounds of imperial literature, and barrier paintings, etc. In Edo, however, with the emergence of the ukiyo-e culture, the themes of paintings were in a big bang and shifted directly to areas of popular interest, such as cityscapes, portraits of actors and beauties, etc. It was truly a “popularization of art. It was truly the “popularization of art.
It may be my personal opinion, but I think that artists in Japan are more loved for the works they created as an afterthought. I am strongly attracted to Sotatsu Tawaraya and Matabei Iwasa, but I think that the style of artists who earn their living separately and do painting as an afterthought rather than as full-time painters may have something that resonates with the public. Tawaraya Sotatsu is said to have operated a store specializing in fans. I think that this indicates that there is a freedom in the mind that goes into the canvas, and that there is no sense of narrowness in the mind of the creator.

Today, the media is approaching a major turning point, and while there is no end in sight to the innovation of existing media via the Web, videos and other media that impose only personal values are already beginning to hit a wall. The so-called “YouTuber” has reached a plateau and a dead end. Belief in and dependence on a particular individual’s discourse is like a new religion, which is also highly dangerous. I believe that the values of fairness and objectivity are indispensable elements of information. The media should function as an impartial “forum” for information, and its original mission should be to provide information that enables the recipient of information to make a final judgment on his or her own.
In such an era, there are many lessons to be learned from the rise and fall of new media such as Ukiyo-e, which Japanese society has experienced. It is probably necessary to take various truths from history and make use of them.

【大衆メディア革命と浮世絵-3 江戸期・房総町家-12】



出版という仕事にわたしは人生時間をほぼ費やしてきました。どうしてなのか?小学校に上がるかどうかのころに日本のテレビ放送が始まって、力道山のプロレスが札幌大通公園の街頭テレビで放送し始めた。父に連れられてそれを1−2度は見たのだろうか。映像の迫力とその臨場感に熱狂した父はさっそく2軒となりの電気屋さんに頼んですぐにテレビを購入した。以来、映像文化のたぶん最初期受容世代としてメディアというものに惑溺してきた。また街中の小学校だったので、ときどきNHK地方局の「子ども参加番組」に出演することもあった。メディアというものが身近な存在であって将来そういう仕事をと夢想していたのだろうか。
その後、結局メディアというのは経済的に広告事業の一環であることが腑に落ちて、広告業でその成立の根源的な部分について学習し経験を積んだ。結果として「カラー写真がたっぷり表現された」地域メディアというものを創造する事業に邁進してきた。そういう自分の体験と照らし合わせたとき、日本史の中でこの江戸期の「浮世絵」がもたらした大衆芸術の世界はまぶしい民族的先行事例として自分の中で光を放っていた。これは想像するしかないけれど、江戸期の人びとにとって手頃な価格で入手できたカラー印刷物の即物性は無上の存在だっただろう。浮世絵の醸し出す想像力世界に触れることで、全国旅行ブームというのが江戸期を通じて盛んになっていった事実。また見世物芝居のスターたちがブロマイドのように表現された。さらに女性美というものがはじめて「メディア化」していった。結果として人間の本然を刺激する自由な大衆の娯楽が驚異的な盛り上がりを見せた。江戸期の浮世絵は名所・役者絵・美人画というジャンルを開拓したけれど、わたしは地域の「いい家」という空間の奥行きを表現したいと祈念している。「いごこちの見える化」というテーマか。


「房総のむら」でそれが町家の一典型として建築的に明示されていたことは思ってもいなかった奇跡的な遭遇。「そうか具体的にはこういうしつらいの空間から浮世絵は生産されていったのか」という驚異の体験なのです。ちょうど自分がテレビ世代として映像文化に惑溺したように、江戸期の人びとは浮世絵からのわかりやすいカルチャーショックに惑溺していたのだと思う。日本社会の大衆文化にとってこうした変化はまさに革命だったと思える。
その基礎になったのが、絵師と彫り師・刷り師という技術者たち。絵師については芸術家としての名声がはるかな後代まで名を残すけれど、しかしそのベースは彫り師・刷り師の技術開発がすべての根源だっただろう。基盤は江戸期の大衆芸術を支えた映像表現の知の結晶がもたらしたもの。その努力の痕跡を見て、はるかに触発され続けている自分がいる。

English version⬇

Ukiyo-e and the Popular Media Revolution – 3: Edo Period, Boso Machiya – 12
For those of us who experienced the postwar TV cultural revolution, the rise of popular color painting and publishing in the Edo period seems to us to be a dazzling trace of our ancestors. …

I have spent most of my life in the publishing business. Why? When I was about to enter elementary school, Japanese TV broadcasting started and Rikidozan’s wrestling began to be broadcast on street TV in Sapporo Odori Park. My father took me to see it once or twice. My father was so enthralled by the power and realism of the images that he immediately asked an electronics store two doors down to buy a TV set. Since then, as one of the first generations to be exposed to the visual culture, I have been absorbed in the media. Since it was an elementary school in the city, I sometimes appeared in “children’s participation programs” on NHK’s local station. Perhaps I was so familiar with the media that I dreamed of working in such a field in the future.
Later, it became clear to me that the media was economically part of the advertising business, and I learned and gained experience in the fundamental aspects of its formation in the advertising business. As a result, I have been working hard to create local media that are “richly illustrated with color photographs. In light of my own experience, the world of popular art brought about by ukiyo-e in the Edo period shone in my mind as a dazzling national precedent in Japanese history. One can only imagine what the immediacy of affordable color prints must have been like for the people of the Edo period. The fact is that the nationwide travel boom that was triggered by exposure to the imaginative world of ukiyo-e prints flourished throughout the Edo period. The stars of freak shows were represented in the form of bromides. In addition, female beauty was “mediatized” for the first time. As a result, the free entertainment of the masses, which stimulated human nature, enjoyed a phenomenal rise. Ukiyo-e of the Edo period pioneered the genres of famous places, portrayals of actors, and paintings of beautiful women, and I wish to express the depth of the space of “good houses” in the region. The theme of “visualization of comfort”?

It was a miraculous encounter that I had never expected to see it manifested architecturally as a typical “machiya” (townhouse) in the village of Boso. It was a marvelous experience for me to realize that Ukiyo-e was produced from this kind of space. Just as I was dazzled by visual culture as a member of the television generation, I believe that the people of the Edo period were dazzled by the easy-to-understand culture shock from Ukiyo-e. I believe that these changes were truly revolutionary for the popular culture of Japanese society.
The basis for this change was the painter and the engraver/printer. Although painters will remain famous as artists until far into the future, I strongly believe that the development of engraving and printing techniques was the basis for all of these changes. The foundation for this was the crystallization of the knowledge of visual expression that supported popular art in the Edo period. Seeing the traces of these efforts, I find myself continually inspired.

【そば1杯値段で流通・浮世絵-2 江戸期・房総町家-11】



 江戸末期にヨーロッパとの交易が開始されたとき、輸出された陶器などの「緩衝材」として浮世絵の印刷失敗品が使われ、それを受け取った西洋人が緩衝材・浮世絵のカラー印刷のレベルの高さに驚かされたことをきのう書いた。それくらい当時のニッポン社会では日常的な「大衆芸術」であったことそのものに西洋は驚愕したのだという。
では当時の社会ではどれくらいで浮世絵は流通していたのかと探るとなんと「そば1杯」の値段とほぼ同価格帯だったという。現代のそばの値段、おおむね4-500円から高くても1,000円はしない。わたしは東京博物館で浮世絵展があったときに手刷りの限定100枚っていうのを1枚30,000円くらいで購入した記憶がある。(1枚目の写真)あれは「暴利」だったのかと唖然とした(笑)。まぁ冗談。江戸期のように大衆が支持して大量販売の事業構造が確立した時代とは違って、専門職としての「摺り師」さんの存在を支える市場構造が現代にはない。そういう時代に当時と遜色のない仕上げ技術で丹念に仕上げる職人技に惚れ惚れとしたものだ。
しかしそば1杯の値段でこういうカラー印刷の芸術を楽しめていたというのは、まことに素晴らしい。国の豊かさというのはいろいろな測り方があると思うけれど、キビシイ大衆の選別眼というふるいに掛けられた上で愛されてきた価値感には深く頷かされる。日本は「民主的」な社会の素地が根強いとわたしには思えるのですが、世界のなかでもここまで大衆芸術がリスペクトされる社会というのはすごい。西洋人が驚いたことの実質にこういう要素が強かったのではないか。「ひょっとするとこの国の民は民主主義ということを深く理解しているのはないか?」と。

さてそういう浮世絵の題材として、全国旅行ブームを支えた「名所図会」と同時に「美人画」というジャンルが大きかったとされる。とくに江戸は常に適齢期男性が過剰な町であり、見返り美人とかたくさんの日本女性の美が追究された。で、判で押したように「うりざね顔」の美人画が好まれたようだ。現代に残っている美人画では圧倒的に多数派。以前ブログで縄文の美人、弥生の美人というような分析を試みたけれど、そこではそれほど「うりざね」への固執は見られなかった。京美人という王朝美学でもそう感じられず、むしろ「ふっくら」系への支持が強いと感じられる。そういう変遷を経て江戸期の日本的な美感としてこの「うりざね顔」はDNA的に響いてくる。江戸期の大衆芸術では民のコアを探らなければ「売れない」というキビシイ選別眼にさらされ、その結果選び取られた美感なのだろうか。さらにファッションの要素でも浮世絵には「当世ぶり」表現が競われたに違いない。現代の芸能ビジネスが行っているような切磋琢磨、熾烈な競争原理がそこに反映もしていると思う。

English version⬇

Ukiyoe: Distribution at the Price of a Cup of Soba, Ukiyoe-2: Edo Period, Boso Machiya-11
Ukiyo-e is an art form of mass printing that is supported by the masses. The strict selection of the common people in the Edo period nurtured the Japanese publishing culture. …

When trade with Europe began at the end of the Edo period (1603-1868), Ukiyo-e prints were used as “buffer materials” for exported ceramics, etc. I wrote yesterday that Westerners were surprised at the high level of color printing of Ukiyo-e as buffer materials. The West was astonished at the fact that Ukiyo-e was such an everyday “popular art” in Japanese society at that time.
I asked how much Ukiyo-e were sold in those days, and found that the price was almost the same as the price of a bowl of soba (buckwheat noodles). The price of a bowl of soba today is generally 4-500 yen, or at most not more than 1,000 yen. I remember buying a limited edition of 100 hand-printed ukiyo-e prints for about 30,000 yen each when the Tokyo Museum held an exhibition of ukiyo-e prints (first photo). (The first photo) I was stunned to think that it was a “wild profit” (laugh). Well, just kidding. Unlike the Edo period, when the business structure of mass sales was established with the support of the masses, today there is no market structure to support the existence of “printers” as a profession. I was fascinated by the craftsmanship of the “surishi” who painstakingly finished their work with finishing techniques that were on par with those of that era.
It is truly wonderful that people were able to enjoy this kind of color printing art for the price of a bowl of soba (buckwheat noodles). There are many ways to measure a country’s wealth, but I can’t help but nod in agreement with the sense of value that has been preserved and loved by a selective and demanding public. I believe that Japan has a strong foundation of a “democratic” society, and it is amazing to see a society in which popular art is respected so much, even in the world. I think this is one of the reasons why Westerners were so surprised. I think that the people of this country have a deep understanding of democracy. And.

The subjects of ukiyoe include “Meisho Zue” (famous places), which supported the nationwide travel boom, and at the same time, “Bijin-ga” (portraits of beautiful women), which was a major genre. Especially in Edo, where there was always an overabundance of men of the right age, many Japanese women’s beauties were pursued, such as the beauty of a “kirika-bijin” or “turned-around beauty. As a result, it seems that “urizane-faced” bijinga were favored, as if by seal of approval. This is by far the majority of beauty paintings that remain today. In a previous blog entry, I attempted to analyze Jomon beauties and Yayoi beauties, but I did not find much adherence to the “urizane” face. Even the dynastic aesthetic of the Kyo-bijin, or Kyoto beauties, did not seem to be so obsessed with the “plump” type. After such a transition, the “urizane face” resonated in the DNA of the Edo period as a Japanese aesthetic. In the popular arts of the Edo period, artists had to be selective in order to find the core of the populace or they would not sell well. In addition, ukiyo-e must have competed with the fashion element for “zeitgeist” expression. I believe that this reflects the principle of friendly competition and fierce rivalry that exists in the entertainment business today.

【世界が驚愕した浮世絵文明-1 江戸期・房総町家-10】



さてこの房総のむらでもいちばん魂を揺さぶられる江戸文化の精緻の町家店舗。「本・瓦版」の店・葛飾堂のご紹介であります。わたしどもの主領域・出版は江戸の浮世絵文化の大興隆、大衆文化大革命を見ずには語ることができないと思う。出版に主要な人生時間を費やしてきた人間として、町家建築としてこういう業態の店舗を参観できる機会に恵まれて心躍る思いがした。
出版、それも木版印刷の歴史について、京都の先達「竹笹堂」さんのHPから要旨引用。
〜戦国の世を家康が統一し泰平が訪れ文化の中心が町民に移行した江戸時代。初頭に京都で商業的な出版が行われ本を取り扱う「本屋」が誕生した。瞬く間に市中に数多くの本屋が並び、続いて大阪に本屋が登場して上方で出版文化が育まれていった。寛永(1624-1645年)には江戸でも本屋が開業。のちに美人画の名手喜多川歌麿や、役者絵の奇才東洲斎写楽などの錦絵を出版して一大版元となる蔦屋重三郎も吉原に書店を構えた。〜
〜伝統木版画技法の確立 大量印刷物を限られた時間と費用で生産するため無駄をそぎ落とし、表現方法をシンプルにすることで浮世絵木版画独特の構図の妙や色彩表現が生まれた。制作工程を分化させ、下絵を描く「絵師」、版を彫る「彫師」、色を摺る「摺師」、それぞれ専門職として作業する三者分業制印刷が確立した。一般に知られる葛飾北斎や喜多川歌麿は絵師で大手版元のお抱えや独立して活動した。素材や色彩、表現全てが独自性に富んだ日本の木版多色カラー印刷は、当時世界最高峰の技法。のちにゴッホをはじめとする多くの芸術家たちに影響を与え世界中を驚愕させた。【豆知識】世界に日本の高度な木版印刷技術が知られたのは、印刷に失敗した木版画を陶器や磁器などの他の輸出品の緩衝材として海を渡ったからだという。〜


いやはや、紙くずとして梱包材に浮世絵を使ったというさりげない事実から江戸期社会の大衆芸術の浸透ぶりに驚かされる。宗教芸術や貴族層の趣味生活に奉仕させられる存在であったヨーロッパ芸術に対して、無造作に紙くずとして利用された木版印刷ニッポン芸術が、まさに文明的驚愕をもたらせたことは日本人として誇らしい。けっして豊かではない都市住民の生活の中で、それでも多色印刷の絵画が各家庭に飾られて、夕餉の一家団欒に話題を提供していたのだろう。その絵画のテーマに則して旅の話題であったり、有名歌舞伎スターのゴシップであったり(笑)、大いに平和な家庭のいっときを彩っていた。もちろん識字率の高さから活字本で学習・情報収集にも余念がなかっただろうけれど、多色印刷のわかりやすさは、ひとのこころに強烈なインパクトを与え続けた。わたし自身はテレビという映像文化に染まった最初期世代だけれど、この江戸期の浮世絵文化にはじめて触れた人びとも、どうも似たような文化革命体験世代だったのではないだろうか。この空気感が愛おしい。

English version⬇

Ukiyo-e Civilization that Astonished the World -1 Edo Period, Boso Townhouse-10
Europeans were horrified by the culture shock of Ukiyo-e paintings being used as packaging cushioning material (laugh). Nippon, a society leading the popularization of art. …

The most soul-stirring store in the village of Boso is a machiya store that is an exquisite example of Edo culture. I would like to introduce Katsushikado, a “book and tile edition” store. Our main area of business, publishing, cannot be described without referring to the great rise of Ukiyo-e culture in Edo, the great revolution in popular culture. As someone who has spent a major part of my life in publishing, I was thrilled to have the opportunity to visit this type of store, built as a machiya (traditional townhouse).
The following is a brief history of publishing, especially woodblock printing, from the website of Takezasa-do, one of Kyoto’s forerunners in this field.
〜The Edo period (1603-1868) was a time of peace and prosperity as Ieyasu united the warring states, and the center of culture shifted to the townspeople. In the beginning of the Edo period, commercial publishing took place in Kyoto, and “bookstores” that dealt in books were born. In no time, numerous bookstores lined the streets of the city, followed by the appearance of bookstores in Osaka, which fostered a publishing culture in the Kamigata region. During the Kan’ei period (1624-1645), bookstores also opened in Edo. Tsutaya Shigesaburo, who later became a major publisher of nishiki-e prints by artists such as Kitagawa Utamaro, a master of beautiful women paintings, and Toshusai Sharaku, a prodigy of actor pictures, also had a bookstore in Yoshiwara. 〜The first woodblock print shop in Yoshiwara was established by Tsutaya Shigsaburo.
〜Establishment of Traditional Woodblock Printing Techniques In order to produce large quantities of prints in a limited amount of time and at a limited cost, the ukiyo-e woodblock printing method was simplified to eliminate waste and create the unique composition and color expression unique to ukiyo-e woodblock prints. The production process was differentiated, and a three-person division of labor system was established, with the “painter” drawing the preliminary sketches, the “engraver” engraving the plates, and the “printer” printing the colors, each working as a specialist. Katsushika Hokusai and Kitagawa Utamaro, both well-known artists, were either employed by major publishers or worked independently. Japanese woodblock multicolor printing, with its unique materials, colors, and expressions, was the world’s most advanced technique at the time. The technique later influenced many artists, including Van Gogh, and astonished the world. Trivia: Japan’s advanced woodblock printing technology became known to the world when woodblock prints that failed to print were shipped across the sea as buffer material for other exports such as ceramics and porcelain. ~.

The casual fact that ukiyo-e prints were used as packing materials for paper scraps is surprising in its permeation of popular art in the Edo period society. In contrast to European art, which had been a form of religious art or an object of service to the aristocracy’s lifestyle, Japanese woodblock-printed art, which was used carelessly as paper scraps, was a civilized wonder, and as a Japanese, I am proud to say that it brought about a sense of wonder. In the not-so-affluent lives of city dwellers, polychromatic paintings were still displayed in each household and provided a topic of conversation for the family dinner table. The paintings were often about travel or gossip about famous Kabuki stars, depending on the theme of the painting (laugh), and they added a lot of color to the peaceful family life. Of course, the high literacy rate in Japan meant that people probably had to learn and gather information from printed books, but the ease of understanding provided by multicolor printing had a powerful impact on people’s hearts. I myself am of the first generation to be imbued with the visual culture of television, but I suspect that the people who first came into contact with the Ukiyo-e culture of the Edo period were of a similar generation that experienced a cultural revolution. I love this atmosphere.

【街並み魅力の主役「甘味店」-2 江戸期・房総町家-9】



日本の街の成立は、農業を基盤としたムラの境界の道に沿って出来上がっていったと言われる。生産手段であり、生き延びていく基本である農的生活のなかで非日常の点景として出現したのだろう。農業生産生活・暮らしに不可欠な職人仕事などがきらびやかに示された。
そういう町家店舗のなかでも甘味を売る店は、格段の集客力を持っていたに違いない。日本人の味覚としての甘みというのはきわめて貴重なものであり、それがわかりやすい店舗として具現化していることはそこにキラキラした世界の明確な入口として示されていたのだろう。しかしそれは法事や特殊な行事を飾る非日常感の象徴でもあったように思われる。日本史でも特権階級であったり、寺院での嗜好品としてきわめて特殊な存在だったとされている。江戸期のような大衆社会化状況が盛り上がりがあって、こういうふうに「大衆化」してきたものだろうと思う。
それでも砂糖は長崎からの海外交易で輸入され続けてきたものであり、その流通も含めて特殊な権益構造によって社会的に維持されてきた。需要は十分に予測可能だけれど総量規制されたようなマーケットであり、資本主義的な需要と供給の自由な交易が十分ではない社会の中で、特殊に存在してきた。


菓子屋は朝が早い。「朝ナマ」といわれる大福・団子・饅頭などは、朝のうちに作る。これは必ずその日のうちに売り切るべき日持ちのしない菓子。朝ナマを作り終わって一息つくと、干菓子や飴などにとりかかりる。練切などは集中力が必要なため、夜に作る場合もあった。概して寒い時期に忙しく夏は菓子が売れなくなる。人生儀礼や年中行事に結び付いた需要が多く冠婚葬祭の引き出物、初節句や七五三の配り菓子などを頼まれると、徹夜となることさえあったという。
寺社の門前で参詣客に土産の菓子を売る菓子屋には安定した売り上げがあった。寺の得意となってお供物の菓子を納める場合もあり、祭りに特別な注文が入ることもあったことから、菓子屋にとって寺社はないがしろにできない存在だった。
店舗建築としては店頭で製造工程そのものを展示するスタイル。明治以降は「ガラス建材」で仕切りを作って清潔を維持したことだろう。菓子箪笥が階段下にあるけれどここには干菓子を入ている。菓子が湿気ないように桐製だという。菓子箱には大福やきんつば、羊羹、しおがま、おこしなどが入れられ赤い漆塗りで粉がしかれて商品管理されていた。せいろには湿度管理が大切な小麦まんじゅうが入っている。日本人のライフスタイルとしての甘味と暮らしの関係を想起させる店舗建築。

English version⬇

The star attraction of the townscape “Sweet store”-2 Edo Period, Boso Machiya-9
The largest star store in the group of machiya stores. It was an industry that regulated the total amount of its material “sugar”. The function of decorating the “Hare” (ceremonial occasions) of weddings and funerals. ・・・・.

It is said that Japanese towns were established along the boundary paths between villages based on agriculture. They probably emerged as an extraordinary landscape in the midst of agricultural life, which is the means of production and the basis of survival. The artisans’ work, which is essential to agricultural production and daily life, was displayed in a glittering manner.
Among these machiya stores, those that sold sweet foods must have had an exceptional ability to attract customers. Sweetness is an extremely precious part of the Japanese palate, and the fact that it was embodied in a store that was easy to understand must have been a clear gateway to the glittering world of sweetness. However, it also seems to have been a symbol of the extraordinary sense of decorating for legal and special events. In Japanese history, it is said to have been a very special item for the privileged classes and as a luxury item in temples. I believe that it became “popular” in this way when the mass socialization of the Edo period was in full swing.
Even so, sugar has continued to be imported through overseas trade from Nagasaki and has been socially maintained by a special interest structure that includes its distribution. It is a market where demand is sufficiently predictable but the total quantity is regulated, and it has existed uniquely in a society where free trade between capitalist supply and demand is not sufficient.

Confectioners are early in the morning. Daifuku, dango, and manju (steamed buns), known as “asanama,” are made in the morning. These are sweets that do not last long and must be sold out by the end of the day. After finishing the “morning nama,” they take a break and start working on dried confections and candies. Nerikiri, for example, required a lot of concentration, so it was sometimes made at night. Generally, they were busy during the cold season, and sales of confections were slow during the summer. Many of the confections were related to life ceremonies and annual events, and when asked to make gifts for weddings and funerals, or confections to be given out on New Year’s festivals and the 75th and 75th birthdays, the confectioners even had to stay up all night.
Confectionery shops selling souvenirs to visitors at the gates of temples and shrines enjoyed steady sales. They sometimes became the specialty of temples and delivered sweets as offerings, and they sometimes received special orders for festivals, so temples and shrines were an existence that confectionery shops could not ignore.
The style of store architecture was to display the manufacturing process itself in the storefront. After the Meiji period, partitions would have been made with “glass building materials” to maintain cleanliness. A chest of confectionery is located under the stairs and used to store dried confections. They are said to be made of paulownia wood to prevent the sweets from getting damp. Daifuku, kintsuba, yokan jelly, shiogama, okoshi, etc. were stored in confectionery boxes, which were lacquered in red lacquer and covered with powder to keep them in good condition. In the “Sei” box, there are wheat manjus (wheat buns), for which humidity control is very important. The store’s architecture evokes the relationship between sweetness and daily life as part of the Japanese lifestyle.

【甘味・お菓子の民族史-1 江戸期・房総町家-8】



家は希望する人がいて成立する。住宅雑誌・メディアって建築要素把握と生活の関連にスポットを当てる役割。住宅の意味はそこでシアワセな暮らしが営めるかどうか、が最大ポイント。もちろん作り手の紹介は大きい要素ではあるけれど、家を希望する人にとって本当の最大助言者は、すでに建てたひとの実感だろうと思います。それを第3者的な視線で「取材」して表現していくことがメディア最大の役割。シアワセな「だんらん」生活が実現しているのかどうか、取材センサー機能を働かせて、これから建てる人に伝える役割が社会機能の中核。
そんな意識を持つと連綿と繋がってきている昔人の暮らしから現代と通底する普遍的な価値観が自然に浮かび上がってくる。ちょっと(笑)以前の時代の人間生活・民俗の歴史とか、古民家群から発掘できてくる。生活の「だんらん」には実に多様な要素、シアワセのカタチがあると思わされる。そんなことがら・ものごとを深掘りしてみたいということで、いまは江戸期房総の商家群をピックアップ中。
本日はひとを蕩けさせる甘味の世界・町家の「お菓子屋」さんであります。甘いものは実はその甘味料・砂糖の歴史からして実は新しい部類の人間体験だと気付かされる。


財団法人・農畜産業振興機構のHPに甘味の歴史が詳述されている。以下要旨抜粋。
〜砂糖がもたらされる以前の庶民の甘味料は、ヨーロッパでは蜂蜜であり日本では飴であった。飴はもち米などのデンプンを麦芽(麦もやし)で糖化して作られる我が国古来の甘味料。『日本書紀』において初代の天皇とされる神武天皇の即位前紀に「飴(たがね)」が記されているほか『延喜式』には平安時代の都に「糖(あめ)」の店があったとされる。
江戸時代の初めまでは餡といえばもっぱら味噌味や塩味だった。長崎に来航する唐船・オランダ船により砂糖が大量輸入されるようになると、金平糖などの南蛮菓子のほか従来の飴に加え新たに砂糖を用いた飴が作られるようになる。嘉永6年(1853)の『近世風俗志』の「饅頭」の項では「昔は菜饅頭・砂糖饅頭の二制あり。何時よりか菜饅頭は廃れ今は砂糖饅頭のみなり。今の饅頭、表は小麦粉を皮とし、中に小豆餡を納る。小豆は皮を去り砂糖を加ふ。砂糖に白黒の二品あり。昔は諸国ともに菜饅頭廃しその後は塩饅頭と云ひて小豆餡に塩を加へたり。近世は鄙といへども皆専ら砂糖饅頭なり。文化以来やうやうかくのごとくなり」とある。〜
いずれにせよ、家庭で甘味の菓子を作ることは珍しく、このような商家・町家店舗で専業的に作られて購入されていたのが実態だっただろう。砂糖の普及に伴って徐々に家庭でも正月の餅つきで「あん餅」がつきあげられるように変化していった。昭和中期までのわたしの生家でも賑やかに多量のあん餅を作っていた。その餅つきの製造場所は深く記憶に残っている。前日までの材料仕込みから家族総出での餡作り、餅つき、手ごね作業の隅々まで、深く記憶に残り続けている。年越しを飾るメインイベントとして、甘味は日本人にとって「だんらん」の豊かさを実感できる大きな機会だったことだろう。

English version⬇

Ethnographic History of Sweetmeats and Sweets -1 Edo Period, Boso Machiya-8
It was in the merchant and townhouse houses of the Edo period that “sweet foods” were first offered to the common people in their homes. The merchants and merchant houses of the Edo period were the first to offer sweet foods to the common people, enriching the Japanese home life.

A house is established when there are people who wish to live in it. Housing magazines and media are responsible for highlighting the relationship between the understanding of architectural elements and living. The most important point of a house is whether or not it is possible to live a happy life there. Of course, the introduction of the builder is a major factor, but I believe that the greatest advisor for people who want to buy a house is the experience of those who have already built one. The greatest role of the media is to “report” and express this from a third-party perspective. The core of the social function of the media is to use its sensor function of reporting on whether or not a “happy home” life has been realized, and to tell people who are going to build their own homes about it.
With such an awareness, universal values that are common to the present day naturally emerge from the lives of the ancients, which have been connected to the present day. The history of human life and folklore of an earlier era can be unearthed from the old houses. The “communal living” of daily life has a variety of elements and forms of happiness. In order to delve deeper into such things, I am now picking up a group of merchant houses in Boso during the Edo period.
Today, we are going to visit a sweets shop in a machiya, a world of sweetness that can make you fall in love with sweets. I realize that sweet food is actually a new kind of human experience, given the history of its sweetener, sugar.

The website of the Organization for Promotion of Agriculture and Livestock Industry details the history of sweetness. The following is an excerpt.
〜Before the introduction of sugar, the sweetener for the common people was honey in Europe and candy in Japan. Ame is an ancient Japanese sweetener made by saccharifying glutinous rice and other starches with malt (barley sprouts). In the “Nihon Shoki (Chronicles of Japan),” “tajane” is mentioned in the pre-century of Emperor Jinmu, the first emperor of Japan, and in the “Engishiki (Engi Shiki),” it is said that there was a “sugar” store in the capital during the Heian period.
Until the beginning of the Edo period (1603-1867), red bean paste was usually miso or salt-flavored. When sugar was imported in large quantities by Chinese and Dutch ships that arrived in Nagasaki, new candies made with sugar began to be produced in addition to traditional candies, such as kompeito (kompeito) and other Nanban confections. In the section on “Manju” in the “Kaei 6 (1853)” (Kasei Fuzoku Shi), it is written, “In the past, there were two types of buns: na-manju and sugar-manju. From some time ago, the greens buns were abolished, and now only sugar buns are available. Nowadays, the front of the bun has a flour crust and the inside is filled with azuki bean paste. The azuki beans are removed from the skin and sugar is added. There are two kinds of sugar, black and white. In the old days, many countries abolished the “naeba-manju” and later it was called “shio-manju” (salt buns). In modern times, all the local people have been making sugar buns. It has been like this since the Bunka era. ~…~…~…~…~…
In any case, it was rare to make sweet confections at home, and the reality was that they were made and purchased exclusively at merchant houses and townhouse stores like this one. With the spread of sugar, the home cook gradually began to make “anmochi” at the New Year’s rice-cake pounding. Until the mid-Showa period, my family was making large quantities of anmochi in a lively atmosphere. The place where the rice cakes were made remains deeply in my memory. From the preparation of ingredients up to the day before, to the family’s concerted efforts to make red bean paste, to the pounding of the rice cake, to every detail of the hand-kneading process, all remain in my deepest memories. As the main event that decorates the New Year’s Eve, sweetness must have been a great opportunity for Japanese people to experience the richness of “Danran” (gather together).

【商家の仕掛け「木製シャッター・配送車」 江戸期・房総町家-7】



さて房総のむら「小間物屋くる里」さんシリーズ。主要な扱い商品としての髪結い関連製品、櫛・かんざしなどの「小間物」を見てみたが、本日は店舗の建築面の機能性について。
商家・町家は人通りのある街道筋などに対して間口を開けてその開口部はフルにオープンして顧客の誘導を図るのが一般的。2階建ての場合、1階は商品展示スペースとして活用して2階を商談専用、あるいは高額商品などのスペースとして利用する。ただし、その業態によって千差万別に対応が分かれていく。この小間物屋の場合、玄関間口は3間となっている。京町家など商家に対しての税は、間口の広さに相応して決められていたという。従って商家では間口が狭く、奥行きが長いという形式が多くなる。税負担軽減の知恵と工夫(笑)。それと密集感が「にぎわい」を自然に醸し出すので意図的にそうしていたのだろう。織田信長はかぶき者としてこうした町家群をぶらつく習性があったと言われる。重商主義的な権力の性格はこのような町家群の空気感が好みである権力者によってもたらされた。
ショーウィンドウとしての1階スペースがフルオープンで開放されるためには開口部建具は省略したいけれど、夜間などは閉めておきたいということで、シャッターのような機能を木製建具に担わせたい。ということからご覧のような「揚戸」「上げ下げ戸」という夜用出入口付きの木製シャッター。


さらに面白いのが荷車とショーケース的な台車。はじめこの車を見たとき、ひょっとして髪結いを終えた良家の奥方・令嬢がその姿を帰り道にこれみよがしに町の人に披露するパレード用のクルマか?と誤解したのですが(笑)、説明をしっかり見ると、どうやらタバコの煙管などの出店販売用のものとのこと。煙管の導管部のことをラオと言うそうで、これは「ラオ車」でキセルの販売やヤニ落とし修理などの行商に使った。そうするとこの1階の店舗三和土(たたき)部分は一種の駐車場でもあったワケで、それこそ昭和に至るまでの町家店舗の原型としての姿が浮かび上がってくる。
実際に昭和中期の戦後社会でわたしの生家ではこの台車の代わりに「オート三輪」車で配送・行商活動を行っていた。駐車場は実際には店の前の空き地を使っていたけれど、まさに商家の生き様の「つながり」を強く感じさせられて懐かしい。日々の営業活動に必死に取り組んで余念がなかった父母の日々の様子が強く香り立ってくる。取り扱う商品は違っても、日本の商家の基本のありようがピンナップされている。時代劇ドラマなどではサムライが主役だけれど、圧倒的多数の庶民はこのような暮らし方で連綿と今日社会まで生き延びてきているのだ。

English version⬇

Wooden shutters and delivery wagons, a contrivance of a merchant house, Edo period, Boso Machiya-7
Desperate for business, the front of the store was fully opened as a show window. Wooden fittings were constructed with wisdom and ingenuity, and a mobile car for peddling was also stored. The shop was built with wisdom and ingenuity.

Now, let’s take a look at the Boso no Mura “Komono-ya Kururi” series. We have looked at their main products, such as hairdressing-related products, combs, and ornamental hairpins, but today we will look at the architectural functionality of the store.
Generally, merchants’ houses and townhouses open their frontage to busy streets and other areas and fully open their frontage to lead customers in. However, the response will vary in a thousand ways depending on the type of business. In the case of this komomono shop, the front door has a 3-ken entrance. Taxes on merchant houses, such as Kyoto townhouses, were determined according to the size of the frontage. Therefore, merchant houses often have a narrow frontage and a long depth. This is wisdom and ingenuity to reduce the tax burden (laugh). The dense feeling of the building naturally creates “liveliness,” so it must have been done intentionally. Oda Nobunaga is said to have had a habit of hanging around these clusters of town houses as a kabuki actor. The heavy mercantilist character of power was brought about by the airy atmosphere of these machiya clusters by a few powerful men.
In order to fully open the first floor space as a show window, we wanted to omit the opening fittings, but we also wanted to close them at night, so we wanted the wooden fittings to function like shutters. This is why the wooden shutter with a nighttime entrance called a “lift door” or a “raised door” was designed, as you can see.

What is even more interesting is the cart and the showcase dolly. When I first saw this car, I mistakenly thought that it was a parade car for the wives and daughters of good families who had finished getting their hair done to show off their appearance to the townspeople on their way home (laugh). (Laughs) However, a closer look at the description reveals that it is a vehicle used to sell tobacco pipes and other items at tobacco stalls. The conduit part of a smoking pipe is called a “rao,” and this was a “rao car” used for peddling kiseru (tobacco pipe) for sale and repairing burnt tobacco. The first floor of the store was also used as a kind of parking lot, and this is the prototype of the machiya store that existed until the Showa period (1926-1989).
In fact, in the postwar society of the mid-Showa period, my family used an “auto three-wheeler” instead of this cart for deliveries and peddling. Although we actually used the vacant lot in front of the store for parking, it was a nostalgic experience that gave me a strong sense of “connection” in the way of life of a merchant family. The daily activities of the father and mother, who were desperately engaged in their daily sales activities, strongly remind me of their daily life. Even though the products handled are different, the basic way of being of a Japanese merchant family is pinned down. Samurai are the main characters in historical dramas, but the overwhelming majority of ordinary people have survived in this way of life for a long time until today.

【おシャレ髪結い櫛・かんざし  江戸期・房総町家-6】



商家の町家群展示、千葉県の「房総のむら」で出会った「小間物屋」。町家建築はその時代の「消費動向」を把握できる。日本女性の美感探究のオリジナル性というのは有史以前から連綿と続いていたでしょう。一見奇妙な形態を見せる縄文土偶の一部にはそういう「髪結い」が反映されていたのかも知れない。きのう江戸期の髪結いの文化について見て改めて気付かされた。どうして日本列島社会ではこういうふうに髪結いが発展して、きわめてオリジナル性の高い髪結い習慣に発展したのか。考えて見ると日本人のナゾ。女性のファッション感覚が作り上げてきた歴史の重要なパーツだけれど、あまり考察してみたことはなかった。言ってみれば「美感の歴史」だけれど、美術作品の流れみたいなものは跡づけることができても、こういう感覚の歴史、あるいは流行の歴史というものは跡づけにくいのかも知れない。決定的なのはむしろこういう日常的な部分だろう。
個人的には娘の成人式での髪結いを思い出す。美容師さんがいろいろに髪型を考えてくれて「もっとこの辺を盛り上げましょうか」「いいね、それ」みたいなやり取りがあって、大いに盛り上がった記憶がある。やはり日本女性のDNAに触れる部分で奥深い審美眼が刺激されているように感じた。彼女たちの目の光のキラキラ感には思い出す度に微笑させられる(笑)。

こういう文化の結晶として櫛やかんざしの類は日本の工芸分野で独特の位置を占めていった。江戸期の職人図でも座っての手先作業ぶりが描かれている。手先に注意が集中する特殊な手工芸の世界。背景としての髪の色が日本民族の場合、黒が基調色になるので、赤と白がポイントカラーとして選択されてきたのだと思う。用途としては髪のデザイン造形をまとめ上げて美感を強調する役割。やはり黒い長髪で風土条件にも反応した質感というのがこの髪結い伝統の基板を形成してきたと思う。
この条件を活かしていくヘアデザインを長時間、およそ37,000年考え続けてきて、オリジナルの髪結い習慣に結晶してきたように思う。その後、明治に至って西洋文化を完全に受容したとき、和服に対して活動機能性に優れた洋服にファッションの背景条件が大変化した。このことで和の髪結い習慣は主流からは外れた。
しかしこのような手工芸の感覚世界は、その後の産業興隆の基盤になっていったと思う。日本独特のものづくり要素としてディテールへのこだわりがあるけれど、その文化風土は日本女性の黒髪が大いに関係していたという大胆な推論も可能に思う(笑)。

English version⬇

Oshare hair comb and hairpin, Edo period, Boso-machiya-6]
Japanese women have black hair. The hair quality nurtured by the climatic conditions also created a unique sense of beauty. The props and workmanship that suited the hair created the foundation for the manufacturing industry that followed.

Exhibition of a group of merchant townhouses, “komono-ya” (booth shop) encountered in the “Boso no Mura” in Chiba Prefecture. The originality of Japanese women’s search for aesthetics has probably been continuous since prehistoric times. Machiya architecture allows us to grasp the “consumption trends” of its time. Some of the seemingly strange forms of Jomon clay figurines may have reflected such “hairdressing. Yesterday, I was reminded of this when I looked at the Edo period’s hairdressing culture. I wondered why the custom of hairdressing developed in this way in the Japanese society and developed into a highly original custom. It is a puzzle for Japanese people. It is an important part of the history of women’s sense of fashion, but I have never given it much thought. It is a “history of aesthetics” in other words, but while we can trace the flow of art works, it may be difficult to trace the history of this sense or the history of fashion trends. However, what is decisive is the everyday part like this.
Personally, I recall my daughter’s hair at her coming-of-age ceremony. The hairdresser came up with various hairstyles, and there was a lively exchange of ideas such as, “Shall I make this part of her hair more lively? I felt that this was a part of Japanese women’s DNA that stimulated their deep aesthetic sense. The sparkle in their eyes makes me smile every time I recall it (laugh).

As a fruit of this culture, combs and hairpins occupied a unique position in the field of Japanese crafts. Even the Edo period craftsmen’s drawings depict the way they worked with their hands while sitting down. This is a special kind of handicraft in which attention is concentrated on the fingertips. The color of the hair as a background is black for the Japanese people, and red and white have been chosen as the point colors. The purpose of this technique is to emphasize the beauty of the hair by bringing it together in design and modeling. I believe that the texture of long black hair that responds to the climate conditions has formed the basis of this hair-tie tradition.
The hair design that makes the most of these conditions has been thought about for a long time, about 37,000 years, and has crystallized into the original custom of hairdressing. Later, when Western culture was fully embraced in the Meiji period (1868-1912), the background conditions for fashion changed drastically, with Western clothes having superior activity and functionality in contrast to Japanese clothes. This meant that the Japanese custom of tying hair fell out of the mainstream.
However, the sensory world of handicrafts became the foundation for the subsequent rise of industry. One of the unique elements of Japanese craftsmanship is the attention to detail, and it is a bold inference that the cultural climate had a lot to do with the black hair of Japanese women (laughs).

【日本女性美探究「髪飾り&結髪」  江戸期・房総町家-5】



どんな時代でも女性は美を探求する。人間の本然として異性へのアピールというものが存在し、人間文化の中核に位置し続けている。日本では和服というファッションが成立し、それに似合った髪型が独特に発展して、江戸期女性は上のような結髪を施し、その重要なパーツとして鼈甲(べっこう)製品での髪飾りが盛況を究めていた。
髪に挿す櫛や「かんざし」の歴史は古く、すでに縄文の晩期頃には用いられていたという。奈良期ころまでは髪は束ねられ「結う」ことが行われた。平安時代以降、女性は垂髪となった。〜垂髪(すべらかし)とは、婦人の下げ髪の一種で十二単(じゅうにひとえ)を着る時の後ろに長く垂れ下げた髪型のこと。〜
室町時代末期からはまた「結い上げ」始め江戸時代には一般に広まって多数の独特の「髪型」というものが登場し「流行」現象が見られ始めたのでしょうか。それに伴ってさまざまな材質や形のものが一世を風靡するようになる。「房総のむら」では「小間物屋くる里」という店舗として紹介されていました。

日本の産業史としては北海道のニシン漁と北前船交易の大きな起動要因として、綿花栽培の魚肥として必要とされて本州地区の農家の畑で重厚に施肥された。その綿花を使って女性服が仕立てられ、最大のファッション産業が成立したのだとされる。それは主に上方・京呉服というブランドを成立させ、消費都市江戸に「下って」いった。下らないという言葉はこういう日本文化事情から出現していった。まことに女性美の探求は日本文化最大の起爆剤ですね、あな怖ろしや(笑)。

櫛・笄(こうがい)・簪(かんざし)などの髪飾りや白粉・紅などの化粧品をはじめ、塗り物の器や箱物、眼鏡、刃物、袋物、煙草入れ、根付など、こまごまとした日用品を商った。これらの商品は小間物問屋に集荷され小売りの小間物屋がそれらを仕入れた。主に女性生活用品なので客は女性が多く、小間物売りも女性が多かったといわれる。近代に入って次第に化粧品・服飾品などの種類が増え需要増加に伴い、小間物屋の多くは洋品店・化粧品店など専門店分化した。
小間物屋では中程度の小間物屋には、常時番頭を含めて4~5人の店員がいたという。座売りを主体としていた。同時に行商として竹カゴ数個を重ねて中に小間物類を入れて風呂敷に包み、背負って家々を訪ね売ることもした。当時は櫛や簪類も本物のべっ甲を使っており、虫がつきやすいので売れるまで虫除けの樟脳を入れるなど、気を使うことが多かったのという。
それにしても和服とこうした髪型という独自の審美眼というのは、非常に面白い日本女性美文化。こういう美の極限文化を持ちながら、西洋の審美文化も旺盛に取り入れたワケだ。そこにさまざまなフュージョンが生成したことも疑いない。

English version⬇

Edo Period, Boso Townhouse-5] “Hair Decoration & Hairdressing” – An Exploration of the Beauty of Japanese Women
The culture of hairstyles is like a pole point created by the aesthetic sense of Japanese women. The sublime search for beauty is deeply felt. The hair of the Edo period

Naturally, women in every age search for beauty. Appeal to the opposite sex exists as human nature, and it continues to be at the core of human culture. In Japan, the fashion of kimonos was established, and hairstyles that matched kimonos developed in a unique way.
The history of combs and “kanzashi,” or hairpins, is long, and they were already in use as early as the late Jomon period (710-794). Until around the Nara period (710-794), hair was bound and “tied”. After the Heian period (794-1185), women began to wear their hair in a slicked-back bun. 〜The term “slicked-back hair” refers to a type of lowered hairstyle worn by women when wearing the junihitoe (twelve-layered kimono), in which the hair hangs down long in the back. ~.
The “yuiage” hairstyle began to appear again at the end of the Muromachi period (1333-1573) and spread to the general public in the Edo period (1603-1867), and many unique “hairstyles” appeared and became “fashionable. In the Edo period, a variety of materials and shapes came to dominate the market. In “Boso no Mura”, it was introduced as a store called “Komono-ya Kururi”.

In Japan’s industrial history, the herring fishery in Hokkaido and trade with the Kitamae-bune were major factors in launching the industry, and it was heavily fertilized in the fields of farmers in the Honshu area, as it was needed as fish manure for cotton cultivation. It is believed that women’s clothing was tailored using this cotton, and the largest fashion industry was established. It is said that the greatest fashion industry was established using the cotton to tailor women’s clothing, which was mainly branded as Kamigata/Kyo kimono, and then “went down” to the consumer city of Edo. The word “shitaoranai” emerged from this Japanese cultural context. The search for feminine beauty is truly the greatest catalyst of Japanese culture.

They sold hair ornaments such as combs, Kougai (hairpin) and hairpins, cosmetics such as Shiroko (white powder) and rouge, and other daily necessities such as lacquered vessels, box goods, glasses, cutlery, bags, tobacco pouches, and netsuke (ornamental diapers). These goods were collected by koyomono wholesalers and purchased by retail koyomono shops. Since these goods were mainly women’s daily necessities, many of the customers were women, and it is said that many of the komono sellers were also women. In the modern era, the variety of cosmetics and accessories gradually increased, and as demand for these items grew, many komamono shops became specialty stores such as Western-style clothing stores and cosmetics stores.
A medium-sized haberdashery shop always had four to five staff members, including a watchman. The main business was selling goods on the floor. At the same time, they also peddled by carrying several bamboo baskets stacked one on top of the other, wrapped them in furoshiki (wrapping cloth), and sold them from house to house on their backs. In those days, combs and hairpins were made of real tortoiseshell, which was prone to attract insects, so they had to be carefully packed with camphor to keep insects away until sold.
The unique aesthetic sense of kimono and hairstyles is a very interesting part of the Japanese women’s beauty culture. While maintaining such an extreme culture of beauty, they also vigorously adopted Western aesthetic culture. There is no doubt that a variety of fusions were created in this culture.